2008 EZ GO golf cart

[kgsc]

Is the fnr part of the key switch? Reason I am asking is because you stated that the brake releases when put in tow mode.

[Kirkrobinson]

Hello again, still working on the cart. I did figure out why the brake
lights remained on all the time, It turned out the cit rely under the dash was not working. After replacing the rely the brake lights went off. Unfortunately, the cart still does not run. I have replaced the solenoid and key switch and still no luck. The batteries are at about 51.5 volts and I am getting about 50 volts across the solenoid when key is turned on. The brake releases when I place the switch into tow mode, but when turning on the key in run mode I don’t hear a click or release of the brake. Now sure how to proceed with trouble shooting from here. Thanks in advance to you ideas.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by Kirkrobinson

Hello again, sorry forgot to add it has an ACD motor controller.

That is a Danaher controller for an RXV. And the RXV has a brake light relay. You must replace that relay with the proper 24V relay. A 12V automotive relay will not work and will cause the poweron self-test to fail at the brake relay coil test.

Bob

[Kirkrobinson]

Thanks for the suggestion on the relay. I don’t believe I have the correct reply will track the correct one down and report back. Just a FYI the forward and reverse are all controlled from the key switch. Thanks again for all of the help it is much appreciated.

[Kirkrobinson]

Checking back in. Still no luck in getting my cart to work. Replaced the relay with a 24 volt relay ( just like the old one) and cart still not working. When the key is turned on there is a click at the solenoid. The brake does release when in tow mode. But I don’t here it release when the key is turned on and in run mode. On the plus side the brake lights are off now. Would appreciate any thoughts on how to proceed next on troubleshooting.

[Kirkrobinson]

Hello again. Did some more testing and found I do not have 5 volts going to the brake pedal sensor, throttle pedal sensor, encoder harness and state of charge meter. Also did a voltage check on the 23 pin plug when plugged into the controller and did not get any voltage from the number 3 pin. With these findings I am assuming the controller is my problem. Would like to hear your thoughts and wisdom before I make the decision to buy one. Thanks.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by Kirkrobinson

Hello again. Did some more testing and found I do not have 5 volts going to the brake pedal sensor, throttle pedal sensor, encoder harness and state of charge meter. Also did a voltage check on the 23 pin plug when plugged into the controller and did not get any voltage from the number 3 pin. With these findings I am assuming the controller is my problem. Would like to hear your thoughts and wisdom before I make the decision to buy one. Thanks.

Very common problem, typically caused by someone with a voltmeter probing the SOC guage socket and shorting the +5VDC logic power supply pin to the +48VDC pin right next to it. It burns out the 5VDC regulator in the controller, and all of the 5 VDC encoders (throttle encoder, brake encoder, and motor speed encoders) that are powered by that 5VDC power supply. You might as well replace the controller and encoders, and upgrade to a Curtis controller while you are at it. Here is a link to my instructions on how to do the Danager to Curtis upgrade...

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ocumented.html

Bob