Jakes and Sunco Hydraulics Brakes - The merging of two systems

[cheapjeep2]

Originally Posted by Great white north

For what it's worth ,, was talking about the master cylinder Sunoco sent me , it was a 1/2 inch bore ..the picture of cylinder you have posted is not the same cylinder Sunoco used when he first started selling them , if he is now using 5/8 bore then that is a different story .. Duh

Possibly, Was the one you received a black one? I know he switched over to a silver one like the one I am using, I verified with him that it's same one he has used and can confirm that in his installation manual in this thread as you can see it in the picture.

Regardless, for the price the of Sunocos kit even if you bought it with the cylinder he uses and then got the master cylinder from WheelsCA for $48 that they sell, the entire package is still $100-150 cheaper than anything else out there.

When I put my WheelsCA rear kit on my ezgo, it was a total bitch to get the them to work right, in fact, it was hard to get working than Sunocos, tons and tons of bleeding required, even then if you dig deep enough in the archives before Sunoco, you will see people struggle to get the WheelsCA MC bled with lots of topics on bench bleeding and so forth.

Sure, possibly the first MC he was using may have been too small, I don't know, but all I know is regardless of kits, unless you have quite a bit of experience with hydraulics, it can be an nightmare to get them working, regardless of brands.

Have a good one.

[cheapjeep2]

I took a video, it's not the best, but it does show how much Sunocos brakes are grabbing. Remember, Jakes front, Sunoco back. Both of these were from about 20-22 mph. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPlWqS7S264

[Andy4639]

With the cart jacked up and wheels off I can put my brake bar on the studs and they will not turn, they are solid. Red tool in the picture that Pimp daddy made for me. Put the wheels back on and put the park brake on you cant turn it. Put it on the ground and it will not move. Start driving it and it's like what happen to the brakes! It will rool for a while after hitting the gas! It will finally stop it but if your in a pank stop well hold on cause your going to hit whatever it is in front of you.
I'm thinking maybe I need to take the pads off and sand them that maybe they are glazed over.

[cheapjeep2]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

With the cart jacked up and wheels off I can put my brake bar on the studs and they will not turn, they are solid. Red tool in the picture that Pimp daddy made for me. Put the wheels back on and put the park brake on you cant turn it. Put it on the ground and it will not move. Start driving it and it's like what happen to the brakes! It will rool for a while after hitting the gas! It will finally stop it but if your in a pank stop well hold on cause your going to hit whatever it is in front of you.
I'm thinking maybe I need to take the pads off and sand them that maybe they are glazed over.

Try that, and sand the rotors too. So your peddle is firm, not mushy at all, and when you apply the brakes with your foot the pedal doesn't go all the way down?

Also, check underneath and make sure that the piston going into the master cylinder is not at an odd angle. On my easy go I had a problem where when I first mounted it. I noticed they were not working as they should and where not holding when ebrake was applied. I had to readjust the mounting bracket to make sure they piston went straight with out binding.

Remember what I said about the Club Car that I put the rear WheelsCA kit on, that WheelsCA kit struggled to stop the cart. It had 23" tires. The WheelsCA rotors are also slotted to deal with heat. If they were not slotted and drilled I am confident they would not stop the cart due to heat.

I wonder if your cart is simply too heavy for the brakes being lifted like it is, and the breaks not being slotted are heating up and fading.

I would venture to say if you are 100% confident of no bleeding issues, no piston alignment issues, then you are dealing with glazing and fade due to heat build up, due to the weight of your tires.

Add some Jakes to the front and don't look back, your Sunocos will perform really well with fronts on, I think you're just overloading them.

You see how mine stops but it's not lifted.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by cheapjeep2

Try that, and sand the rotors too. So your peddle is firm, not mushy at all, and when you apply the brakes with your foot the pedal doesn't go all the way down?

Also, check underneath and make sure that the piston going into the master cylinder is not at an odd angle. On my easy go I had a problem where when I first mounted it. I noticed they were not working as they should and where not holding when ebrake was applied. I had to readjust the mounting bracket to make sure they piston went straight with out binding.

Remember what I said about the Club Car that I put the rear WheelsCA kit on, that WheelsCA kit struggled to stop the cart. It had 23" tires. The WheelsCA rotors are also slotted to deal with heat. If they were not slotted and drilled I am confident they would not stop the cart due to heat.

I wonder if your cart is simply too heavy for the brakes being lifted like it is, and the breaks not being slotted are heating up and fading.

I would venture to say if you are 100% confident of no bleeding issues, no piston alignment issues, then you are dealing with glazing and fade due to heat build up, due to the weight of your tires.

Add some Jakes to the front and don't look back, your Sunocos will perform really well with fronts on, I think you're just overloading them.

You see how mine stops but it's not lifted.

That's what I have been thinking also. When I get time I will sand them down some and I plan to add the front brakes as well. Just have to find the time to do it. oh and feel like it also!

[cheapjeep2]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

That's what I have been thinking also. When I get time I will sand them down some and I plan to add the front brakes as well. Just have to find the time to do it. oh and feel like it also!

Sorry for the shitty typing, I was rushing from the iPhone, dang auto-correct...

I wonder how hard it would be to slot these rotors with a grinder, I have two extra sets, would be worth a try.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by cheapjeep2

Sorry for the shitty typing, I was rushing from the iPhone, dang auto-correct...

I wonder how hard it would be to slot these rotors with a grinder, I have two extra sets, would be worth a try.

Haven't thought of that! That may help a little to!

[cheapjeep2]

Thought I would post an update after several months. The cart is still braking very well, both the Sunoco rears and the Jake's front are performing wonderfully both are very good systems.

[theboss20]

Just a footnote...brake rotors can also be drilled in a random pattern for cooling and one of the most overlooked items is brake fluid...if you live in a high humidity area...brake fluid absorbs water and can become an issue when used in a system where heat is a constant...the water heats up and turns to a vapor (steam) and now you have ineffective brakes...be sure you use fresh brake fluid and keep the can lid on tight when sitting on the shelf...by the way the higher the performance the brake fluid the more water it will absorb.