bypass of obc

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by motorboat

series cart with lever type f/r control.

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ScottyB-What i want to know does the power for the yellow wire at the soleniod come from the potentommeter (speed control) through the
obc to #3 connection at the control box? Or is the entire function
controlled by the application of 48 volts across the soleniod to power up the control box.I have no power at the yellow wire to feed the solenoid
thus no power to the control box and system. Thank You-Matt

I think this is where we need to concentrate I will look at the diagram and see...

From the manual.....

Test Procedure 3–Voltage At Main Solenoid Activating Coil
Read DANGER and WARNING on page 11-1.
1. With the batteries connected, place Tow/Run switch in TOW and wait 10 seconds before proceeding. Using
a multimeter set to 200 volts DC, place black lead on small post with blue/white wire and place red lead on
small post with blue wire.
2. Place Tow/Run switch in RUN. Solenoid should activate for 2-3 seconds and then deactivate. When
solenoid clicks, voltage reading should be approximately 48-50 volts (full battery voltage). If the voltage
reading is 48-50 volts and the solenoid does not click, replace the solenoid.

3. If the voltage reading is zero volts, replace speed controller.


I think it is odd they do not mention the yellow wire? this is an '00 manual ....Can you see where the yellow wire is going? is on a terminal by itself? Or are there othere (Red)wires with it?

Is this your cart?

Is your solenoid in the rear of the cart? Can you post a pic?

[motorboat]

Scottyb-re-read your last e-mail to me,plus the section obove it you copyed from
my previous message.

The wiring diagram you sent is the correct one .Go to the power wire for
the soleniod---it is yellow---if you can"t find it,i need to talk with someone
who can. Matt

Cart is a 1998--series--48 volt system,with forward/nuetral.reverse lever.
It doesnot have a tow/run switch--unless you a referring to the f/r lever.

[Q2arrowhunter]

I know this post is old BUT....My father in laws cart quit charging. My brother in law took it to the local shop who charged him $75 to do something to the charger. Still when he plugged it in it would not charge (charger would not come on). He took it back to the shop and the dude said that the on board computer was bad and wanted $450 to replace it.

He calls me. I did some searching and found this thread to test. I opened the yellow fuse and jumped a wire from the receptical end to the last neg and then plugged the charger in. The charger made a LOUD pop with smoke. We pulled the plug fast.

What did i do wrong? I opened the charger and looks like a wire got burned.

Did I screw the charger up?

[Chrismicro305]

motorboat as I see it, the yellow wire between solenoid and the OBC is the negative supply to the solenoid, the positive is on the other side of the coil and it come from the micro switch in the throttle wiper box. Now I would like to know what the coil voltage of the solenoid is, is it 48 Volt or 24 Volt? Another thing I have to warn about, is the protection diode on the solenoid, always make sure it is properly fixed and in the right polarity before you apply power to the cart, down else you can cook all the electronics OBC, and speed control, the EMF from the solenoid coil can run up to thousands of volts.

[Chrismicro305]

motorboat as I see it, the yellow wire between solenoid and the OBC is the negative supply to the solenoid, the positive is on the other side of the coil and it come from the micro switch in the throttle wiper box. Now I would like to know what the coil voltage of the solenoid is, is it 48 Volt or 24 Volt? Another thing I have to warn about, is the protection diode on the solenoid, always make sure it is properly fixed and in the right polarity before you apply power to the cart, else you can cook all the electronics OBC, and speed control, the EMF from the solenoid coil can run up to thousands of volts.