2001 EZ Go aux battery

[yurtle]

I use a marine fuse block. It has a - bus, unlike automobile fuse blocks. I bought a 3 position, uniquely keyed key switch from EZGO - not cheap.
I ran one negative through a separate fuse mounted on top of my main battery charge receptacle. That way, I can pull one fuse and kill everything to work on them. From there, it goes to my key switch, then back to the - on the fuse block . I ran a dedicated - from the supply (unswitched side) of my key switch to my flashlight charger and power outlet, so they are unswitched. All of my accessories have a dedicated - and + from the fuse block to a switch on the dash, with the exception of my dome light and radio, which have their own switches.

Hope this helps.

Edit:
My three position key switch is actually two independent switches, so the 12 volts and 48 volts are independent. Make sure any accessories are not connected to the frame. My buggy came with car fog lights, which were negative grounded, so I had to use plastic to insulate them from the frame.

[Smee112488]

What size wiring do you use? Also do you have any pictures of your setup?

[yurtle]

I can't see the wire size, but on the wires going to the fuse block, I think I used 10. I used wires sized for the loads from the fuse block to each accessory. I think I used 12 for the stereo, power outlet, and horn, and 14 for everything else. All my lights are LED. For my battery voltages, I think it was 16 or smaller. I used a muticonductor cable for those. I have nine fuses directly connected to every battery, the a multiconductor cable from the fuse block to the 12 position rotary switch, which feeds my Exray - volts, speedo, motor temp, odo, clock, runtime, etc.

[yurtle]

I always buy marine switches and fuse blocks. The cost more, but are made for corrosive environments.

[Smee112488]

Thanks for all your advice. I agree with the marine parts because I want this done right the first time, even if it costs more initially I know it will pay off.