EZGO TXT 36V accelerator not working

[davismw]

I have an E-Z-GO TXT 36V with an Alltrax 4855 Controller and a 8 HP GE Motor Model 5BC49JB1132. For some reason the cart will not move when you press the accelerator in forward or reverse. When I turn on the key, the green light on the controller flashes 4 times (which is correct for this model) and when you press the accelerator, the solenoid clicks. When you press the accelerator all the way, the green light on the controller turns orange (which indicates the controller should be providing full power to the motor).

New parts that have been recently added prior to having this problem -
Forward/Reverse Switch and cable to the controller
(recently the switch went bad and burned the cable)
Solenoid (replaced this before i found the problem with the f/r switch)

New parts that have been added in an attempt to fix this problem -
F&R Micro Switch
ITS Inductive Throttle Sensor
(new sensor is reading 0.4v without throttle and 5.5v with throttle inserted)

The following are test I have perform -

On the motor, I jumped A1 to S1 and A2 to S2, then used jumper cables to 12V battery with A1 on ground and A2 on positive, and the motor turned the wheels (assume the motor is good)
On the motor, voltage to A1, A2, S1, and S2 with switch in forward reads 21.8V and declines to zero when you press the accelerator.
Voltage to A1 and A2 with the switch in reverse does the same, but S1 and S2 read 38V and does not decline when you press the accelerator.
Bypassed solenoid by bolting both cables to the post connecting to the controller and no change.
Bypassed key switch and connected directly to battery and no change.
Voltage between M1 and B+ post is 16V and increases to 38V when you press accelerator. Read that voltage should be 0 when accelerator is not pressed, but need confirmation.
Both the red and black wires on the controller read 9.5V and declines to 5.5V when you press accelerator
Cleaned and check cables

I would appreciate any help to assist in identifying the problem.

[Raystar57]

Davis, this is the Introduction sub-forum, no technical questions to be posted here.

You need to post in the EZGO forum so folks can help you quicker.

The moderators will probably move this post to that forum.

Welcome to BGW!

[Sir Nuke]

Welcome to our happy little corner of the net, and to BGW . There is a BIG fridge on the back porch with anything you can think of in it...help yourself...of course only take what you can LEGALLY have. Make yourself at home on one of the big fluffy couches, kick your shoes off, put your feet up on one of the tables, yes we are allowed to do that, mom's, wives', husbands, girlfriends and boyfriends here don't care....and take it easy.



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Welcome!!

Sir nuke !!!!

[Sir Nuke]

Originally Posted by crash test dummy

Sir nuke !!!!

Thanks Crash....really appreciate it.

[handtools]

I had an Alltrax 4855 that failed on me last year. Here is a link to the thread about it, maybe it will help you.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...-shutdown.html

[davismw]

Thanks for info
Will call Alltrax today
Voltage between B- and M- is 19v and increases to 21v when you press accelerator
Based on link this would be a bad controller

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by davismw

Thanks for info
Will call Alltrax today
Voltage between B- and M- is 19v and increases to 21v when you press accelerator
Based on link this would be a bad controller

The voltage between B- and M- ought to be full battery pack voltage (about 38.2V when fully charged) when the pedal is pushed just far enough to make solenoid click and should smoothly decrease to about 0V as pedal is slowly pushed to floor.

The control element (MOSFETs) are located between B- and M- and are effectively an open when the pedal is only pushed far enough to get solenoid to click, and there should only be a very slight amount of resistance in the high current cables, connections and the contacts in the F/R switch and solenoid, or in the motor windings, so all the battery pack's voltage will be dropped across the only high resistance in the series circuit.

Conversely, the MOSFETs are effectively a short when they are at 100% duty cycle (wide open throttle), so zero volts are dropped across them.

The voltage between the small red and black wires connected to the controller is more or less meaningless since they are parts of two separate circuits. You should have 36V on the red wire when pedal switch closes, energizing the solenoid and turning on the controller.

The black and white wires are the throttle. You should have 10V between then when the solenoid clicks and it should decrease to 6V as the pedal is pushed to floor. Since the Green LED turns to Yellow with pedal on floor, the throttle is most likely okay.

I'd start by finding out where the missing voltage that ought to be between B- and M- is.

[davismw]

Thanks... talked with Alltrax tech and based on my testing he is telling the the FNR is bad and should be replaced (the one of purchase 3 months ago was heavy duty, but don't know how to test switch).

He also told me the contactor switch is much better for my application and that the HD switches (old style) are not as good as they need to be.

Also talked with D&D tech about motor and based on my tests the motor should be ok but the voltage to the motor is not correct.

Based on this i assume the switch is generating incorrect voltage to the controller, however i am in way over my head.

Ordering a new switch to see what happens next.

[handtools]

I would highly recommend that you consider a H/D F/R switch from here.

http://www.cartsunlimited.net/f---r--switches.html