RXV short run then stops

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by Cdavis2824

No this is the Danaher ACD controller. It's an early 2012 model.

If I jack up the rear tires the cart will run just fine. Something in the drivetrain causing excessive resistance or just a component heating up while under load??? This thing has me all kinds of baffled.

It sounds completely normal for an RXV with bad batteries. The batteries are sagging under load, and the controller is sensing this voltage drop and reacting to it in the only manner that it can. Voltage sitting still is not the issue, it's what the voltage drops to when the current demand is put to the batteries. RXV controllers are well known to be extremely sensitive to voltage drop under load.

I know you put in new batteries, but obviously they are not up to the task. Maybe they are not being fully charged, or may be sulphated already, or just lack the capacity required, or it could be bad cables. What condition are the battery cables and lugs in?

Bob

[usgicollector]

I know you got new batteries but I want you to do this. Hook your digital volt meter to your battery pack. Now try taking a ride and watch the dvm. Let us know what the reading is when you take off and what it drops down to when it doesn't want to go. Maybe you got a bad battery it does happen.

Looks like Bob got in before me. Listen to Him he knows these RXV very well. Maybe he can help you.

[Cdavis2824]

Cables and lugs are all in pretty good shape. Nothing alarming from a visual standpoint.

I feel as if I just keep throwing parts at a "possible cause" I would love to find a smoking gun, before I throw another $1k at it...... I've had it for 3 weeks and am almost to the point where I could have bought 2 carts for the same price.

Wouldnt the SOC meter indicate the batteries were low? When it does this the SOC is still pegged out.

[Cdavis2824]

Started in driveway at 50.99v made it almost around the house(50 yards) cut off reading 50.34V

[usgicollector]

Bob can the brake be loose coming off the switch or into the switch just a little and shutting down the throttle?

[cgtech]

Try that voltage test again, but with the positive on the solenoid terminal from solenoid to controller. Bad (melty) solenoid can drop significant voltage.

[Cdavis2824]

Started at 50.99V shut off at 50.19. Had 50.19 on both sides of solenoid.

[usgicollector]

Originally Posted by usgicollector

Bob can the brake be loose coming off the switch or into the switch just a little and shutting down the throttle?

This should have said brake pedal not brake. I was thinking that as soon as you put your foot on the brake the throttle cuts off. If brake pedal is loose and starts touching the brake switch maybe that could have been happening. Just a thought.

Can you get the Danaher handheld back on this cart and see what faults your getting.

Maybe Bob or cgtech will jump in and give us some help.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by usgicollector

This should have said brake pedal not brake. I was thinking that as soon as you put your foot on the brake the throttle cuts off. If brake pedal is loose and starts touching the brake switch maybe that could have been happening. Just a thought.

Can you get the Danaher handheld back on this cart and see what faults your getting.

Maybe Bob or cgtech will jump in and give us some help.

Well, the brake pedal and throttle pedal tests at powerup only look at the brake and throttle position encoders and the throttle zero switch, not the brake switch. The brake switch is tested during the Motor Brake portion of the powerup test. The reason the brake switch is not tested by that particular test is the brake switch is mechanically timed to switch off at about 60% of brake pedal travel. This is designed to interrupt power to the motor brake, allowing it to act as an emergency brake, even though it was not really designed for that purpose. It was designed to be a parking brake only. It would take a lot of brake pedal travel for the brake switch to open circuit.

Having said that... What you propose about pedal travel should not be able to set a fault code once the cart has already passed the powerup tests. It could cause the brakes to apply a bit, then release again when the pedal down condition clears. What could cause a fault condition and shutdown is either the brake encoder or throttle encoder readings going out of range. This is what happened to my RXV that went into WOT runaway. 99.999% of the time, such a condition SHOULD cause a fault that shuts the cart down and prevents operation until the key is turned off and back on to initiate another powerup test. In my case, it was one of those unlucky 0.001% times that the reading was so far out of range that it crashed the program running in the controller, which stuck in a WOT loop that ignored all inputs.

I would think that if a pedal sticking issue were the case, the cart would be failing a lot of powerup tests due to a slightly sticking pedal causing an encoder reading to be out of margin for pedal zero condition. I don't remember any mention of this. If this is the case, the solution is fairly simple. Disassemble the pedal assemblies, clean out the bores around the pivot rod with a spray can of brake cleaner, then lube the pivot rod where it passes through the aluminum blocks on both sides with a 30 weight motor oil. Do not use WD-40 or any other penetrating oil. They contain VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds) that evaporate, leaving behind a gummy residue that can cause sticky operation later.

Bob

[usgicollector]

Thanks for the information Bob. I'm thinking he needs the handheld programmer hooked up and running and see what it is doing.