The Classic "my cart wont go"

[biphase]

The 14 volts is the power going from the controller to the throttle sensor. The signal coming from the sensor to the controller should vary from about 1 volt in the pedal-up position to 2.8 volts in the pedal-down position.

[GCash]

I got back on this thing tonight and replaced the its module and it made no difference. I’ve got some Curtis testing info on how to bench test the controller and the motor before replacing your controller, the controller tested good, the motor didnt fall exactly within the specs but close. That was just testing with the volt meter. I found a couple ways to jump the motor to get it to spin, and got nothing out of it. I find it weird though a motor would just go bad from sitting. This thing moved fine when I parked it. I still have no clicking out of the new solenoid, I would think it would need to click if the motor was good or bad. I removed the controller to get a better look at stuff, the aluminum plate on the back of it has a lot of corrosion, it’s actually warped, if I took the plastic cover I bet there’s corrosion inside of it, but it checked out fine with the ohm meter, so I’m not too sure, now we’re getting into the expensive parts...

[nickdalzell1]

Welcome to the world of golf car repair! We can have one in for months if it's overly customized (so much our service manuals no longer apply) or an off brand (Speaking of you, Bad Boy Buggies and Tomberlin!) or the customer has hacked the harness so badly it's unsalvageable.

[Raystar57]

Originally Posted by GCash

I found a couple ways to jump the motor to get it to spin, and got nothing out of it. I find it weird though a motor would just go bad from sitting. This thing moved fine when I parked it. I still have no clicking out of the new solenoid, I would think it would need to click if the motor was good or bad.

Seems like you have two issues going on.

Solenoid not being activated by the controller and a motor with possible stuck brushes or a short.

If the motor has some issues like a short (not necessarily stuck brushes) it is is possible that it damaged the controller.

I would insure the motor is in good shape before replacing the controller as it could take out a new controller.

How did you test this motor?

[mgray70]

Originally Posted by Raystar57

Seems like you have two issues going on.

Solenoid not being activated by the controller and a motor with possible stuck brushes or a short.

If the motor has some issues like a short (not necessarily stuck brushes) it is is possible that it damaged the controller.

I would insure the motor is in good shape before replacing the controller as it could take out a new controller.

How did you test this motor?

I agree with Raystar. I think you have a controller and motor issue. I've worked on one with stuck brushes before, where the motor had gotten flooded and the brush housing corroded just a little. I think for sure your controller is bad. The good thing about replacing it with an Alltrax is, if the motor is shorted, the Alltrax will detect it and throw a fault code without frying the controller unlike the curtis replacement.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

[GCash]

to test the motor I found a couple ways and tried them both and got nothing out of either, no sparks, no humming, not even smoke lol. For both tries I had 2 batteries tied together to give me 12v, I verified it with a volt meter, had over 12. I connected a2 to f1 with one of the extra battery cable, connected jumper cables to the batteries, and put the negative on a1 and positive on f2. Then the other way I took a couple battery cables, connected a1 and f1 together and then connected a2 to f2 together then took my jumper cables from my batteries and connected the positive to a1 and the negative to a2

[mgray70]

The last way you mentioned was the correct way for a series motor. If you didn't get anything, I would suspect a broke wire in the motor, or stuck motor brushes.

Originally Posted by GCash

to test the motor I found a couple ways and tried them both and got nothing out of either, no sparks, no humming, not even smoke lol. For both tries I had 2 batteries tied together to give me 12v, I verified it with a volt meter, had over 12. I connected a2 to f1 with one of the extra battery cable, connected jumper cables to the batteries, and put the negative on a1 and positive on f2. Then the other way I took a couple battery cables, connected a1 and f1 together and then connected a2 to f2 together then took my jumper cables from my batteries and connected the positive to a1 and the negative to a2

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

[GCash]

Can I try to “unstick” the brushes?

[nickdalzell1]

If this isn't a series wound motor (has F1/F2 instead of S1/S2) I don't think rigging it to run like that will work.

Best test I know is use a multimeter set to continuity and check F1/F2 and then A1/A2 and see if you get continuity. If not, or it fails on one, your motor is shot or needs brushes.

But, if controller AND motor are gone, I suspect someone pushed it or towed it without putting the switch in TOW first, if this is a PDS or RXV

[GCash]

I’ll have to get my sheet with my meter numbers on it from the other day but the motor didn’t fall within the resistance readings per the Curtis sheet. The part that confuses me still is I drove this into the garage under its own power, came back later and everything fried? My minds blown