At my wits end...2013 Ezgo S6

[chongo49]

A few months back I posted about blowing my motor. It’s been a long process getting the cart back to where it should be running.

With build time, shipping stuff back and forth, finding new problems, shipping, install, etc. a lot of parts have been replaced and cart still won’t run.



Quick timeline: Motor blows. Chuck @EMP motors builds motor. Get it, install, controller issue. Send off controller (Navitas TSX 2.0 600 amp, get 3.0 600amp back, can’t upload custom program, wrong controller sent. But, I was able to get the tires to turn with stock program, only problem was axle shaft was broke.



Instead of ordering new shaft. Replaced the entire rear assembly. In the meantime, Navitas has overnighted another controller which I was able to load the program to.

Now, I’ve replaced F-1 and F2 wires (troubleshooting previous controller issue) replaced motor and replaced entire rear assembly.

Using the Navitas app, it’s reading the Forward and Reverse switch and when in N/F/R, if pushing the cart a few feet, the app shows an RPM and mph number (60 & 3 respectively).

The problem, the cart won’t move. Solenoid clicks with press and depress of pedal. I’ve tried both controllers, no error codes on controller. I’ve followed troubleshooting steps to make sure motor is good provided by Chuck at EMP.

I’m at a loss. I don’t know what else could be a problem. The rear tires turned previously before swapping out the bad rear assembly for the new. Now, it won’t move.

Any thoughts or troubleshooting advice?


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[chongo49]

Forgot to mention, batteries are practically new (8x6v Trojan replaced in May) and are fully charged.


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[Mooncarter]

Trying to follow you here.

Do either of the 2 photos above have anything to do with your current problem?

[chongo49]

Originally Posted by Mooncarter

Trying to follow you here.

Do either of the 2 photos above have anything to do with your current problem?

They’re just photos of stuff I’ve dealt with in the past few months with the cart. Parts that have been replaced.

Currently, cart has new motor, new rear assembly, new F-1 and F2 wires and new controller with program developed by Chuck (EMP Motors) and Navitas.

Cart does not move, solenoid clicks in F & R, no controller error codes.

Thanks.


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[Mooncarter]

What "troubleshooting steps" did you do to test the motor?

[chongo49]

Originally Posted by Mooncarter

What "troubleshooting steps" did you do to test the motor?

FOR ALL OF THESE CHECKES, ALL SYSTEM CABLES ARE TO BE REMOVED FROM THE MOTOR.

1) GROUND CHECK
Remove all wires connected to motor. Using your handheld voltmeter set to Ohms, touch one probe to a motor terminal and the other probe to the motor’s bare aluminum endshield. (This should be “open” meaning you should get the same reading as you do with the voltmeter leads held in space, not touching each other or anything else.)
Do this check for all 4 motor terminals.

2) RESISTANCE CHECK BETWEEN TERMINALS
Set your hand held meter to Ohms. (I am assuming you only have a 2-wire meter.)

Field - Touch one probe to F1 motor terminal and the other to F2 – You should get a really low number. ***
Armature - Touch one probe to A1 motor terminal and the other to A2 – You should get a really low number.

Field to Armature – Touch probe to one of the F terminals and one of the A terminals. You should get really high number as this should be “open”.

*** Note that the actual specified resistance for F1 to F2 is about 0.56 Ohms at room temperature. If you do not have a fancy 4-wire meter, you probably will get a number that could be as high as 2.0. This is simply due to the fact that 2-wire handheld meters are not made to make measurements this low, so they are inaccurate. However, there is value in knowing that there is some low resistance between F1 and F2 and also between A1 and A2 as these are circuits which are supposed to be connected internally. So, if you do NOT get a low number, that would indicate that the circuit has become open somehow.
Resistance from A1 to A2 will also be a low number, but the nature of sliding contacts (brushes, commutators, and brush film condition) makes it impossible to give you a specific value. Suffice it to say, it will be lower than a couple of Ohms as measured with a 2-wire ohmmeter.


3) LOW VOLTAGE MOTOR TEST
You can also tap some power off the battery and conduct a test just to make yourself believe that the motor can indeed function. This is very low tech, but can at least allow you to rule out the motor. See our website for the instructions. http://empinc.biz/tech-support/low-v...-no-controller
(You basically are “hot-wiring” the motor with the vehicle’s wheels off the ground on low voltage to make sure that the motor runs.)


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[Mooncarter]

So you did #3 and it ran?

[chongo49]

Originally Posted by Mooncarter

So you did #3 and it ran?

No. I didn’t because the other steps confirmed motor was good and ran, briefly, before I discovered the broken axle shaft. The motor was removed from rear assembly and reinstalled on all new assembly. Motor sat untouched for a month. Can’t imagine the motor broke sitting on a workbench for a month.


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[Mooncarter]

Nor can I imagine that axle breaking sitting there.

[chongo49]

Originally Posted by Mooncarter

Nor can I imagine that axle breaking sitting there.

Axle broke when motor blew. Just wasn’t discovered till later in the repair/replace process.


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