Another Resistor Heating Up between Solenoid Terminals...

[Htownblue]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

Here is the drawing for it. The Gray wire should be powering the controller, but not with the switch in Tow. But if there is a short somewhere it will still pull - Is there anything else (wiring) on the controller side of the main solenoid except the Yellow cable and resistor? Is there anything else connected at B+ except the Yellow cable from the solenoid and the Green A1 cable?

Ok. Here’s the latest troubleshooting effort and result. I disconnected green motor line at A1 at Motor. Reconnected pack positive input. Resistor remained normal and did not get hot.
White A2 was also disconnected during this experiment.

This dictating a short in the motor correct? With white connected to A2 and green disconnected with pack positive connected, resistor did NOT get hot. Resistor did NOT get hot with both A1 and A2 disconnect at motor. Resistor gets hot with A1 connected and pack positive feeding the controller etc.

[NoleFan4Ever]

You were a step ahead of me. I have seen A1 cause a controller issue before and a Motor ground. Was the A1 cable getting warm while sitting stagnant?

[NoleFan4Ever]

If you want test the motor do this Continuity Test first. Place the Run/Tow switch in "Tow", then disconnect the pack and then all the cables from the motor. (Be sure to double wrench every motor post/stud when breaking them lose or you may break them off. Spray them down with penetrating oil prior to doing it).

Get out your DVM and set it to the Continuity setting and:
- Test between A1 and A2 (Beep)
- Test between F1 and F2 (Beep)
- Test between A1 and F1 (No Beep)
- Test between A1 to Motor Case (No Beep)
- Test between F1 to Motor Case (No Beep)

Now flip your meter to Ohms/Resistance and:
- Test between F1 and F2 and you should get 1.0 to 1.6 Ohms (Not sure of your exact motor)

If all those are correct as stated above then you can test the motor:
With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to F1 and then a jumper from A2 to F2. Connect 16 volts positive to A1/F1 and 16 volts negative to A2/F2. (swap polarities to change motor rotation) And remember that you are only "testing" the motor so you don't want or need to engage it very long.

[Htownblue]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

You were a step ahead of me. I have seen A1 cause a controller issue before and a Motor ground. Was the A1 cable getting warm while sitting stagnant?

I reconnected A2. DISCONNECTED Green A1. Reconnected pack positive. Held and felt Green A1 wired and it did NOT get warm at all. Neither did resistor. Placed cart in RUN, and felt green A1 which did not warm and was still disconnected, and felt resistor which was not warm.

I’m leaning towards a short in the motor based on the above experiments and troubleshooting. Crazy thing is it drove normal up until I parked it and it hasn’t moved for 2 weeks. Been in dry environment. Crazy that it possibly just randomly decided to short which makes me hesitant to believe that, but hey I guess anything is possible....

[Htownblue]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

If you want test the motor do this Continuity Test first. Place the Run/Tow switch in "Tow", then disconnect the pack and then all the cables from the motor. (Be sure to double wrench every motor post/stud when breaking them lose or you may break them off. Spray them down with penetrating oil prior to doing it).

Get out your DVM and set it to the Continuity setting and:
- Test between A1 and A2 (Beep)
- Test between F1 and F2 (Beep)
- Test between A1 and F1 (No Beep)
- Test between A1 to Motor Case (No Beep)
- Test between F1 to Motor Case (No Beep)

Now flip your meter to Ohms/Resistance and:
- Test between F1 and F2 and you should get 1.0 to 1.6 Ohms (Not sure of your exact motor)

If all those are correct as stated above then you can test the motor:
With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to F1 and then a jumper from A2 to F2. Connect 16 volts positive to A1/F1 and 16 volts negative to A2/F2. (swap polarities to change motor rotation) And remember that you are only "testing" the motor so you don't want or need to engage it very long.

Gracias mi amigo. I’ll test the motor.....I suppose it could be the controller gone bad, but evidence is seemingly pointing more towards a motor issue. I’ll know when I test the motor I suppose.

[Htownblue]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

If you want test the motor do this Continuity Test first. Place the Run/Tow switch in "Tow", then disconnect the pack and then all the cables from the motor. (Be sure to double wrench every motor post/stud when breaking them lose or you may break them off. Spray them down with penetrating oil prior to doing it).

Get out your DVM and set it to the Continuity setting and:
- Test between A1 and A2 (Beep)
- Test between F1 and F2 (Beep)
- Test between A1 and F1 (No Beep)
- Test between A1 to Motor Case (No Beep)
- Test between F1 to Motor Case (No Beep)

Now flip your meter to Ohms/Resistance and:
- Test between F1 and F2 and you should get 1.0 to 1.6 Ohms (Not sure of your exact motor)

If all those are correct as stated above then you can test the motor:
With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to F1 and then a jumper from A2 to F2. Connect 16 volts positive to A1/F1 and 16 volts negative to A2/F2. (swap polarities to change motor rotation) And remember that you are only "testing" the motor so you don't want or need to engage it very long.

I unfortunately have continuity between A1&2 and the case end (the end cap at the speed magnet side).
I’m assuming I have short in motor. Any opposing opinions or anything else I should check before sourcing a used sepex precedent motor?

[NoleFan4Ever]

Yes, that would be the Armature. Open it up and inspect it. Maybe something you will see. If not, it will need to go to the motor shop or be replaced with an FSIP speed or torque motor..... Or go up to a Plum Quick Executioner...... :o)

And yes, a used sepex will work fine too.... :-)

[Htownblue]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

Yes, that would be the Armature. Open it up and inspect it. Maybe something you will see. If not, it will need to go to the motor shop or be replaced with an FSIP speed or torque motor..... Or go up to a Plum Quick Executioner...... :o)

And yes, a used sepex will work fine too.... :-)

Time to contact Dave again I suppose. Hopefully I’ve got enough self control to not buy an Alltrax and Admiral....it’s been known to happen before! Hahahaha.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by Htownblue

Time to contact Dave again I suppose. Hopefully I’ve got enough self control to not buy an Alltrax and Admiral....it’s been known to happen before! Hahahaha.

Admiral is good, and have used them many times, but the FSIP are better and cheaper. Plum Quick is the BEST!!

[Fairtax4me]

Some type of corrosion in the motor could possibly cause that.
Has there been a weather change? Cold and dry to suddenly warm and humid? That could cause condensation inside the motor.


You may be able to narrow down a failure in the armature by spinning the rear wheels while checking the A1 post for continuity to the case (with wires and batteries disconnected). If it comes and goes while the armature spins that might indicate a shorted armature winding.

Another option could be that one of the brush wires has rubbed through its insulation and is touching the case. Would require disassembly of the motor to check, but it would at least be an inexpensive fix.