2011 48v EZGO RXV

[rngilliland]

Your picture looks like someone tried to convert to the Curtis controller using the Ezgo kit. The white and orange wire that are spliced back together have to be cut for the conversion harness. If you cut the wrong white wire it can damage the new controller.

[usgicollector]

Here is the main wiring harness but I wouldn't pay more then $150.00 including shipping.

Main Wiring Harness

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by rngilliland

Your picture looks like someone tried to convert to the Curtis controller using the Ezgo kit. The white and orange wire that are spliced back together have to be cut for the conversion harness. If you cut the wrong white wire it can damage the new controller.

Possibly an attempt that was reversed, but the harness in there now has a 23 pin Danaher controller connecter.

Correct on cutting certain wires, it will damage the controller.

[dhartung02]

Maybe they ripped out the upgraded Curtis controller for a new cart and attempted to throw the old Danaher (or what was left) back in there.


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[Nikkidix7]

So last night decided to dig into it a little deeper. Completely stripped down the cart to the frame to get a better look at what was going on with the harness.

Its a massacre It looks like my three year old got left unattended for ten minutes with wire cutters.

If i go with the Curtis controller will the wiring harness that usgicollector suggest still work?
Im a better off going direct to Textron for the controller? During my search for a controller Navitas keeps popping up anyone have any experience with these?

[usgicollector]

Originally Posted by Nikkidix7

So last night decided to dig into it a little deeper. Completely stripped down the cart to the frame to get a better look at what was going on with the harness.

Its a massacre It looks like my three year old got left unattended for ten minutes with wire cutters.

If i go with the Curtis controller will the wiring harness that usgicollector suggest still work? YES
Im a better off going direct to Textron for the controller? NO, You can find them cheaper elsewhere. During my search for a controller Navitas keeps popping up anyone have any experience with these? I would go with the Curtis and let Bob work some magic on it.

[Nikkidix7]

Quick update!

Last night the resistor and cage came in so i decided to fit these and sort through the wiring to see if anything was missing, while im waiting on the controller and and harness (first RXV rebuild, and im not an electrician)

From the prints you guys kindly shared, i believe im missing a few wires? negative from battery was missing, solenoid to the resistor? there is also a grey push connection that i think goes to the resistor also.

what do you guys think?

[Nikkidix7]

Hello again!

So tonight I thought I would try again to figure out the wiring. Connected the grey wire to the resistor and what do you know the cart took off! Only issue I seem to have now is that there is a slight grinding noise coming from the rear axle/ motor area and the cart runs real slow intermittently. It seems like the brake isn’t fully disengaging? As I put my hand over the brake unit and it felt hot after maybe 5 minutes of riding in my driveway.

Have any of you guys come across this problem before?

[rngilliland]

Originally Posted by Nikkidix7

Quick update!

Last night the resistor and cage came in so i decided to fit these and sort through the wiring to see if anything was missing, while im waiting on the controller and and harness (first RXV rebuild, and im not an electrician)

From the prints you guys kindly shared, i believe im missing a few wires? negative from battery was missing, solenoid to the resistor? there is also a grey push connection that i think goes to the resistor also.

what do you guys think?

A white 10 gauge wire goes from the drivers side of the resistor to the rear large terminal on the solenoid. It is the same terminal that has the cable going to B+ on the controller. The small grey wire with the single connector goes to the resistor on the passenger side. Where you have the white wire from the resistor control module attached. From your picture it looks like you have the negative from the battery hooked up correctly to B- on the controller along with the black wire from the resistor control module.

[rngilliland]

Originally Posted by Nikkidix7

Hello again!

So tonight I thought I would try again to figure out the wiring. Connected the grey wire to the resistor and what do you know the cart took off! Only issue I seem to have now is that there is a slight grinding noise coming from the rear axle/ motor area and the cart runs real slow intermittently. It seems like the brake isn’t fully disengaging? As I put my hand over the brake unit and it felt hot after maybe 5 minutes of riding in my driveway.

Have any of you guys come across this problem before?

If the brake drags it will get hot and usually you will notice a smell like burning electrics. You can try loosening the three bolts that hold the brake on. Just loose enough that the brake can move a little. Then with the key in neutral flip the run tow switch back and forth a few times. With the switch in TOW, tighten the three bolts evenly to 50 in/lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench only tighten them until the lock washers are compressed. If you want to you can remove the bolts one at a time when you loosen them and make sure they aren't corroded or damaged. Clean them up with sandpaper or a wire brush.

My experience has been that sometimes the brakes just start dragging and the fix is a new brake. If you get a new brake only get a standard oem brake. I've never used anything but a standard brake but there are a lot of posts about the HD brake not working with the Danaher controller. Ebay seems to have the best prices.