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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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06-02-2019, 10:52 AM | #11 | |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Richmond,Virginia
Posts: 550
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Re: Voltage reducer question
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06-02-2019, 10:54 AM | #12 | |
Gone Mad
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 8,988
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Re: Voltage reducer question
Quote:
Does anyone know if a stock switch can take an extra 10 amps? I haven't confirmed which wires can simply be moved and which ones need to be cut and spliced. Make sure you label them. I'm attaching stock wiring for reference. |
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06-02-2019, 10:59 AM | #13 |
Gone Mad
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 8,988
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Re: Voltage reducer question
Do you still have the reed switch or has it been bypassed? If bypassed, how? Like attached?
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06-02-2019, 11:26 AM | #14 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Richmond,Virginia
Posts: 550
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Re: Voltage reducer question
Yes it still has the reed switch. it is not bypassed.
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06-02-2019, 11:31 AM | #15 |
Gone Mad
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 8,988
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Re: Voltage reducer question
See post #12. Also, you may want to carry a jumper wire in case the reed switch fails. I killed two. First one died fairly soon after I got it. I was dumb and replaced it, which died soon after that.
Another trouble area some series folks have is the four wire Molex connector located near FNR and controller/solenoid. It connects throttle MS and ITS to wiring harness. I finally cut the connector off and soldered and heat shrinked mine. |
06-02-2019, 01:13 PM | #16 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Richmond,Virginia
Posts: 550
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Re: Voltage reducer question
. Here is a photo of f/r switch. If you can tell me again what to do. I have 2green wires one from ing.and one going into a harness. I just don’t want to hook up something wrong and let smoke out.
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06-02-2019, 01:41 PM | #17 |
Gone Mad
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 8,988
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Re: Voltage reducer question
EDIT: Completely rewrote this to make it easier to follow. Final update 2:57 PM. Follow narrative below, as I think it's easier to understand the the words on the second wiring diagram.
Thanks, you made this very easy. Hopefully the attached makes sense. Disconnect light green wire - MS3 - from dark green wire - KSI. Disconnect the red wire from the reed switch to MS2. Plug light green male spade connector to MS2, where the red reed switch wire was disconnected. This will connect MS3 to MS2. You will need to make up a green jumper wire with a two female spade connectors. Attach red wire from reed switch to the dark green wire. This will make KSI hot any time reed switch is closed - charger not plugged in. You'll need a male to male jumper. The blue wire will be where you connect your reducer trigger wire. It should have pack positive when the reed switch is closed - charger unplugged - and the key switch is on. Let me know if this works the way you want, and I'll revise my drawing. I need to do it in Visio, but it's not installed at the moment. The main thing is that now you have a dark green connected to a red wire. |
06-02-2019, 02:05 PM | #18 | |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Richmond,Virginia
Posts: 550
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Re: Voltage reducer question
Quote:
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06-02-2019, 02:21 PM | #19 |
Gone Mad
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 8,988
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Re: Voltage reducer question
If you have a trigger wire, the key switch will see the same load whether your reducer is outputting 1 amp or 30. That's why triggered is best.
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06-02-2019, 02:49 PM | #20 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Richmond,Virginia
Posts: 550
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Re: Voltage reducer question
Ok that is good to know if I decide to add a radio.
You know they say a picture is worth a thousand words. Yurtle I want to thank you again for helping me with this. Everybody on this form goes out of there way to help people. In this world and day in time people like you and all the others are few an far between. |
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