EZGO TXT Submarine...no joke

[tlfinn]

OK so my 9 year old son drove our 2001 ezgo txt off the pond *** into the pond...literally sunk it..like 12' under. It was under for about an hour before I could get my gear together to go "extract" it from the pond.
I pulled it home...opened everything I could...let it sit for prob 72 hours...and lo and behold I drove the thing around the yard for about 10min. Well it sat all week and then the problems started. First I noticed corrosion around the solenoid and it wouldnt click with pressed pedal...Switched out the solenoid and waaa llaa started working again.
After a couple of days me and my oldest son were puttin out deer corn and drive it prob a mile into the woods and stopped for 1 min and that was it. Cart would not move in F or R...solenoid clicking but no movement. So we double timed it home and drug it back and here is what I have:
Battery Pack reading 36-37V (recharging tonight as I write this)
Solenoid: key on F/R in F pedal pressed 36V across small studs
key on F/R in F pedal pressed 36V large post controller side (same with pedal NOT pressed, 36V
no continuity across large posts
Controller: m- to B- Key on F/R in F pressed pedal goes from -.003 to 0
B+ to m- key on F/R in F pressed pedal goes from 32V to 37V
B- to B+ key on F/R in F pressed pedal 36V to 36V

I am lost as to why it wont go..(other than the fact it was sunk)
Any help Guys would be greatly appreciated.
Im rechargeing

[Newbuggyboy]

Originally Posted by tlfinn

OK so my 9 year old son drove our 2001 ezgo txt off the pond *** into the pond...literally sunk it..like 12' under. It was under for about an hour before I could get my gear together to go "extract" it from the pond.
I pulled it home...opened everything I could...let it sit for prob 72 hours...and lo and behold I drove the thing around the yard for about 10min. Well it sat all week and then the problems started. First I noticed corrosion around the solenoid and it wouldnt click with pressed pedal...Switched out the solenoid and waaa llaa started working again.
After a couple of days me and my oldest son were puttin out deer corn and drive it prob a mile into the woods and stopped for 1 min and that was it. Cart would not move in F or R...solenoid clicking but no movement. So we double timed it home and drug it back and here is what I have:
Battery Pack reading 36-37V (recharging tonight as I write this)
Solenoid: key on F/R in F pedal pressed 36V across small studs
key on F/R in F pedal pressed 36V large post controller side (same with pedal NOT pressed, 36V
no continuity across large posts
Controller: m- to B- Key on F/R in F pressed pedal goes from -.003 to 0
B+ to m- key on F/R in F pressed pedal goes from 32V to 37V
B- to B+ key on F/R in F pressed pedal 36V to 36V

I am lost as to why it wont go..(other than the fact it was sunk)
Any help Guys would be greatly appreciated.
Im rechargeing

Sounds like the movie risky business. So who is the uboat commander?

[LukeL]

I’m really surprised there’s any signs of life! Have you pulled the motor and thoroughly cleaned the inside? That’s one of the first things I would do.

[Phil_Billy]

might want to open the ITS box and see if that was swamped too. its located under the floor mat on the drivers side. I hope your son escaped injury and is ok.

[ThreeCW]

Go to the BGW search page, go to Search Site / Google (with BGW ticked) and search “Water Damage”.

There are lots of threads where BGW members share their experience with water damaged and submerged carts.

Experience indicates that ALL electrical components should be removed and dried out (compressed air, a hair blower and various dewatering chemicals will be your chosen tools here).

Many controllers are very susceptible to water damage so that will require a detailed review.

Your rear differential will required to be serviced (minimum of a flush and fluid change).

Wiring may need to be replaced.

The motor will require disassembly, inspection and service. The same goes for the complete braking system and wheel bearings.

The sooner the above us done, the better.

If your cart is insured, you may want to talk with your insurance company

Good luck

[Mooncarter]

Wow it's a wonder it ran at all.

[cgtech]

When you said "no joke", I thought you were serious, but you weren't! I have been considering a electric powered sub for a long time! (Yes, I realize the electric sub has been used in a couple of wars or something). Oh, the fun I could have to "pop up" at a Lake party "unannounced" In a sub. And that's real "no joke"!

Sorry, I was bummed when I read your post!


PS: who here deals in plastic pipe? I could use a few pieces, some in about 1' diameter, and some in about 3' diameter, only needs to be about 10' length, maybe some couplers. I'll figure out the rest.

[EvilSpirit1]

From repairing cars with water damage, it was usually better to dry the electronics out and prevent damage before powering up than to deal with the damage from "lets see what works".

I serviced a riding mower a couple years ago that had been submerged for several days. I pulled the starter, solenoid, ign switch, etc. off - before powering up - blew them off/out with compressed air and tossed them in bags of white rice (uncooked, of course) for several days. Rice is an excellent desiccant and works very well at absorbing moisture out of electronics. Didn't lose a part. I probably changed a dozen starters or solenoids from the "power it up" guys that fried wet components.

[LukeL]

From working with electronics, I feel the same way. Just like if you drop your phone in water, don’t try to turn it on.

Contrary to popular belief, water won’t hurt most electronics, AS LONG AS THERE’S NO POWER. If there’s power, water conducts electricity, causes a short, and bye bye electronics.

Back to the golf cart though. I’d disassemble the motor, check the ITS, and test the motor on 12v as well.

[tlfinn]

FUnny thing is...as soon as I got it out of the water and pulled it home I removed several bolts from the motor and used compressed air to blow through it...nothing.. not a drop. That motor must be sealed very well...I just dont know if my readings at the controller are right? If they are then I guess it might be the motor...I'm not sure what I'm looking for to test in the ITS...?