Eco Battery install in 2017 RXV questions

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by somfas

Thats awesome! Isn't it better to keep it charged up though? Just curious because most of my trips will be 4 miles total. I can charge each time, or let a few trip go between charges

Well, some say not to and others, myself included, say to charge every day. Periodically, I run it without charging for several days if the weather is very good just to see what it can do. I sincerely believe I can get 50 miles down to 2 or 3 Ah if I really push it. Again, that is at a low average speed. All bets are off if I keep it at 26 mph for an hour!

At 4 miles per day, you will lose no battery life by charging every day, but you may want to just charge it every 2 or 3 days.

For battery health, with the ECO battery at least, it does not matter. It does not have a long saturation charge like some do. The charger shuts off the instant it hits 72 Ah.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by scottyb

I got a short test yesterday. 4-5 miles of on/off road use. I was impressed. Between losing 300 pounds and gaining a few volts I clocked 27mph on a slight uphill gravel road with my (underinflated) 20" balloon knobby tires. It also had great thrust up some short hills at the dirt bike track But that is attributed to the Alltrax 500 and aftermarket motor too. More tests and pics of the swap later.

That's great performance! That was with the 72 Ah pack, right?

I am getting a fairly consistent operation of 1.4 Ah per mile which calculates to 48 miles down to 4% SOC. And that's what I am getting when the weather is above 80 degrees. I never tested it when we were in the 60's. I wish I had but it's too late in the year now.

[somfas]

Just wanted to update my original question in case someone searched this post in the future. The original convertor actually has a label to indicate what each wire is. Red 48v input, Orange from ignition, Green 12v out. There are 2 black negative wires and they are joined together inside the loom. I assume it has something to do with it being an AC cart but there does not appear to be a 48v negative along with a 12v negative, which I believe other carts have.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by somfas

Just wanted to update my original question in case someone searched this post in the future. The original convertor actually has a label to indicate what each wire is. Red 48v input, Orange from ignition, Green 12v out. There are 2 black negative wires and they are joined together inside the loom. I assume it has something to do with it being an AC cart but there does not appear to be a 48v negative along with a 12v negative, which I believe other carts have.

I'm sorry your thread got a bit hijacked with all the talk about the terrific ECO Battery. We just get carried away sometimes.

Somewhere there needs to be a 48 volt negative. I'm not sure which wire it could be. Try posting the question in the regular EZGO section. There are probably a lot more members there that are familiar with the converter wiring.

It appears the red is 48 constant and the orange is 48 switch of the key switch. The green being one side of the 12 volt, where is the 12 volt negative? And the 48 volt negative? That is the question you need answered.

It's curious that neither the main wiring diagram or the 12 volt wiring diagram show a voltage converter.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/83...age=110#manual

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/83...age=111#manual

[Cobra,1]

The 48 volt input to the convertor is connected directly to the main pack voltage battery terminals on mine.
The 12 volt out from convertor in connected to a fuse box where any 12 volt accessory’s are connected to. This protects wireing and convertor should accessory fail and short out causing fuse to blow, not wireing to burn up.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by somfas

Just wanted to update my original question in case someone searched this post in the future. The original convertor actually has a label to indicate what each wire is. Red 48v input, Orange from ignition, Green 12v out. There are 2 black negative wires and they are joined together inside the loom. I assume it has something to do with it being an AC cart but there does not appear to be a 48v negative along with a 12v negative, which I believe other carts have.

Here is similar to what I think you have.

https://www.amazon.com/720W-Converte...7122007&sr=8-8

This type high current controller only needs three wires. One 48volt positive (red), one 12volt positive (green) and one common "ground" wire which it the negative wire for both the 48volt and the 12volt.

The orange wire on yours may be a key switched hot to turn the controller on. I'm not sure.

That is why you see two black wires inside the loom. That is your common negative. One black wire goes to battery negative and the other to 12volt negative.

If it were me, I would buy a standard 4 wire converter, amperage according to the needs now and future. I don't like the idea of the negatives tied together, especially with a lithium pack.

Personally, I wouldn't do it with FLA either. This would "maybe" be useful with frame grounded systems, but NEVER connect a current carrying wire to the golf cart frame.

[Volt_Ampere]

Almost all converters have the negatives tied together! Every one I have seen does. Yes there are two ground wires but they are usually tied together.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by Volt_Ampere

Almost all converters have the negatives tied together! Every one I have seen does. Yes there are two ground wires but they are usually tied together.

Many do tie them together. But there is no need to. The two circuits can be isolated, fused and switched separately.

[somfas]

On my other cart, I have a 72v circuit and a 12 volt circuit, and the negative wires are not interchangeable. On this cart I am working on now, They are all together. I will try to upload a pic of the convertor from EB and the birdsnest of black wires all together from the factory. One goes to the battery pack and the others run all over the cart to different lights, etc.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by somfas

On my other cart, I have a 72v circuit and a 12 volt circuit, and the negative wires are not interchangeable. On this cart I am working on now, They are all together. I will try to upload a pic of the convertor from EB and the birdsnest of black wires all together from the factory. One goes to the battery pack and the others run all over the cart to different lights, etc.

Did you get this instruction sheet with the EB voltage reducer? I didn't with mine and had to look it up.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/02...f?v=1618984796

Anyway, the connection to the pack or key switch is straight forward. You will just need to locate the 12 volt feeds in the harness that go to the accessories, lights, etc.

There should be a distribution block with fuses somewhere. Maybe not on factory light setups however. That could be difficult to trace all black accessory wires in the harness. My aftermarket kit has a separate wiring harness and fuse block.

You can start from the lights and work back maybe easier.