08-01-2010, 05:34 AM | #11 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Mims, FL
Posts: 217
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Re: Micro switches
Micro switches are $3.00 each (+/-). If you are worried about them, change all of them. They're one of the cheapest "fixes" you will make. Not that you have to though.
If you take them out, and there are four of them (see photos), you will see that each has a COM1 (for Common) an NC2 (Normally Closed) and an NO3 (Normally Open). One of the switches is two-pole meaning two-wire, the other three are three pole and three-wire. I used ALL three-pole and put a cap on the end of the "tag" wire in the 2-pole switch location. Works fine. The two switches behind the F/R lever are the Neutral Lockout (3-pole) and the Reverse Buzzer (2-pole). The two inside the black box are the Accelerator Kill Switch (3-pole) and the Accelerator Starter (3-pole) Using an Ohm meter, with the switch disconnected, put your meter leads on each of COM1 and NC2. Don't press the switch. you should have CONTINUITY. Move to NO3 and COM. This time depress the switch. you should have CONTINUITY. This is easier when the switches are off the cart. See if this helps. Come back for more if it does not. I recommend not to disconnect the buzzer at the switch. Just take one of the leads off at the buzzer under the dashboard and put a cap on the lose end. |
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