07 GE22E intermittent no go

[bryanw20]

So I have an all original GE22E (including the batteries) has recently started having intermittent no go issues.

Turn on, hear the click, push the pedal and it will jump forward about a foot & stop, sometimes it'll do it 2-3 times & go, sometimes it won't. When it's in its no go mood there is no click when turning on/off and no buzzer when flipping the reverse switch. Horn & lights still work.

Wife tells me she can usually fix it by flipping the tow switch for a few seconds then back to normal, hears the click and can be good for days at a time.

I looked at all the wiring, can't find any obvious splits, cracks, broken wires. The battery terminals can use a good cleaning as 1/2 have some corrosion on them.

A few months ago the horn/light wire corroded off the battery terminal completely, I reattached a new connector & fixed that issue; but can't wiggle any wires this time.

But when it goes, it goes like normal; stop & go no issues. She says it happens more frequently after it's been sitting unused for hours (first thing in the morning). Batteries are charged.

After reading this forum; it seems a g19 is having similar issues; just better trouble shooting from the owner ( I don't know where to start); and an answer seems to be pointing to a controller...???

Where do I need to start looking? If it is a controller; how much is that going to set me back?

Thanks for any tips/ testing instructions, etc!

[VC-Racing]

Either bad batt cable or solenoid.

[smallblock450sl]

Bryan, do you have a volt meter? If so, jack up the back of the car and put the volt meter leads at the end of the battery string (48 volt positive-passangerside and negative-driverside) then push the pedal, the voltage should not drop below 48 volts. You can also lightly press on the brake pedal (to create a "load") and check the reading. All it takes is one bad cell in one battery to lose enough voltage to cause your problem. 6 year old batteries, not that bad of a life span...if you find one bad....time to change the whole set. Hope that helps you diagnoss the batteries at least.

[cgtech]

Also, pay closest attention to the wire harness where it passes under the batteries on the passenger side. Corrosion is most likely to occur there. Pull some of the black wire loom back to look at the individual wires. If it is bad, a complete new harness is available for less than $125 from yamaha.

[bryanw20]

Thanks for the input; will check those things out.

I'm starting to suspect the batteries; as after a recharge it seems to not act up. I forget how funny electronics can be!

[bryanw20]

Originally Posted by smallblock450sl

Bryan, do you have a volt meter? If so, jack up the back of the car and put the volt meter leads at the end of the battery string (48 volt positive-passangerside and negative-driverside) then push the pedal, the voltage should not drop below 48 volts. You can also lightly press on the brake pedal (to create a "load") and check the reading. All it takes is one bad cell in one battery to lose enough voltage to cause your problem. 6 year old batteries, not that bad of a life span...if you find one bad....time to change the whole set. Hope that helps you diagnoss the batteries at least.

Finally got a chance to try this.

First; leaving batts connected in series, I tested across each, read 8.2(ish)V on each, except 1 is now only reading 6.x (last I tested a few weeks ago I'm pretty sure each was reading

So I suspect it is just the batteries. Hope it's only the $400 batts & not $400 batts & $400 controller.

Can I continue to run as is w/o damage to other parts?

Anyone tried epson salt or other 'trick' to prolong life, or at this point is that batt unsaveable?

[smallblock450sl]

Where can you get a set of batteries for 400? No, that stuff about "fixing bateries is bogus. Can't see how you'd hurt anything, but if you want to use the car, buy the batteries and get on with it.