Front suspension questions

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by Dlab

Those tires look toed out no matter what lift is on it. I know David knows more than 99% of this board, but I have a Jakes Spindle lift and don’t have those issues. Now my cart stays mostly off road.....the spinal lift actually gives more lift as far as rut clearance. My Jakes 3” has more clearance with 22” tires than my buddies with 23” tires. And rides just as good. Theres no weight on the front end.......Your still gonna get shook when that back end hits the bumps...

Lowering the tire pressure is the best suspension IMO

The 3" spindle lift is far less problematic than a taller spindle lift. The longer the spindle, the more problems they cause.

[hipower]

I replaced all of the outer bushings on my '01 DS last winter. I started out expecting to only do one lower and once into it realized that I was being foolish. and should just do all of them while I was into it.

If I remember right from the time I jacked it up and gathered the tools I had about 90 minutes in the whole job, including a second trip to the local CC dealer to get another set of bushings. I think the parts cost was well under $30 if my old memory hasn't failed.

[noserider]

Originally Posted by hipower

I replaced all of the outer bushings on my '01 DS last winter. I started out expecting to only do one lower and once into it realized that I was being foolish. and should just do all of them while I was into it.

If I remember right from the time I jacked it up and gathered the tools I had about 90 minutes in the whole job, including a second trip to the local CC dealer to get another set of bushings. I think the parts cost was well under $30 if my old memory hasn't failed.

Thanks. I did the same on my 2004 DS recently. It was pretty simple. I'm going to order the bushings for my neighbors cart from David at Revolution Carts and see if we can get him back on the road for now. He was not interested in changing to an A arm lift at this time.

[noserider]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

With a spindle lift, the stock spring and control arms remain on the car so you'll use regular bushings. We have the factory parts in our store if you're interested. They're factory urethane bushings, not the Chinese dry-rotted rubber Amazon crap.

You'll need the following..
4 - 101558302
2 - 1012303
12 - 1016346
2 - 1016350
4 - 1016349

Just reordered bushings for a Precedent from you. Thanks!

[noserider]

Originally Posted by Rooster59

Did you determine what the problem is? Whatever it is both sides seem to be the same distance out of alignment.

All the front end bushing are either shot or missing. I have some on order and will report back once complete and give the final results.

[noserider]

Replaced the front end bushings on my neighbors Precedent today. The bushings were either broken or missing. The carts stance looks pretty good now and there was only the slightest amount of movement left in the front end. What little movement left seemed to be attributed to the spindle's pressed in metal bushings which I did not address. First time for me to set the toe in on a cart. I read where you get the same amount of threads showing on each side to have a starting point before you take your spacing measurements. Problem is when I did that the wheels were not even close to pointing the same direction. I corrected this by eyeballing what looked like close to a zero toe on both wheels without regard to the amount of threads showing on each side. My question is will using this as a starting point to begin the toe adjustment process work or will there be a problem with the steering when the final toe is set correctly?

[noserider]

I did not have the front of the cart lifted when I started the toe adjustment. Could that have cause an issue? Watching some youtube videos they were adjusting toe wheels on concrete. In some of the threads on this forum carts are tires of the ground. Who's right?

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Set the toe with the vehicle on the ground. Ideally, it's good to put a 150-200 pound person in the driver's seat when you do it. This applies for camber adjustments as well. To set the toe, you need to set the tie rods to show equal threads on each side to get your starting point. It doesn't matter what the wheels look like at this point. You can have 2 threads showing or you can have 25 threads showing. It doesn't matter. What matters is that you bring the tie rods in or out, equally, while maintaining equal threads, until you reach the desired toe setting of 1/8" toe-in.

[noserider]

David thanks for the reply. This does not make sense to me. If I start with the same amount of threads on each side and the tires are not pointing the same direction (one wheel towed out and the other towed in) and I make equal adjustments on each side I would end up with tires still not pointing the same direction. What am I missing here?

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by noserider

David thanks for the reply. This does not make sense to me. If I start with the same amount of threads on each side and the tires are not pointing the same direction (which was the case) and I make equal adjustments on each side I would end up with tires still not pointing the same direction. What am I missing here?

Let's say you run them all the way in. You've got zero threads showing on each side. The tires are obviously going to be turned inwards, bad. They're pointing towards each other. You've got like 3" of toe-in. You would then bring each tie rod out, equally, until you have the desired toe setting. When you run them out, you're reducing toe-in. Since you're bringing them out equally, you're still going to have equal thread count. But instead of zero threads where you started, you now have 17, 18, or whatever number of threads it takes to get your desired toe and still have the steering box centered.