Another mysterious problem for the xperts

[Mooncarter]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

It is possible they're just stuck, but the sepex motors usually don't have access holes for the brushes, so it would have to be removed and taken apart to find out for sure.

I don't think golf cart motors are all that difficult to take apart, but I also don't think starter motors are all that difficult, soooo... you're mileage may vary. Depends on what kind of starter you took apart before. Cart motors tend to be a bit simpler since there's no solenoid on the motor, and there's no drive system on the end.

FT is there any harm in him jacking up the rear and spinning both wheels forward or towing it a bit (in tow) to see if it helps get it going? Just a thought.

[handtools]

I removed the solenoid and tested it out of cart by energizing the small leads, hearing a click and then testing for continuity between the large posts. (no beep).

If the solenoid is energized on the small posts and it clicks you should have continuity on the large posts. Possibly a defective solenoid?

[mrgolf]

You said you removed the solenoid and applied power to the small terminals and it clicked but no beep on the two large post?? That would mean the solenoid is failing to close. In that case the motor is trying to run with the small amount of power passing through the pre charge resistor. The large contacts in the solenoid could be burnt so bad they will not carry power. I would at least give it a better check out.

[Fairtax4me]

Possibly a bad solenoid as well, but testing the motor shows it definitely has a brush problem, based on continuity test and the 12v application test.

[Mooncarter]

Originally Posted by sicrx69

OK. I checked online and although I have f1 and f2, I was able to figure it out. I hooked up a 12v good battery to f2 and a1 with a jumper on f1 and a2...absolutely no rotation. I even attempted to move the tires by hand but I am assuming with 12 volts as opposed to 50 volts, if the brushes are shot as someone suggested, 12 volts will not move the tires and the 50 barely moves them.....

I have never replaced the brushes in a golf cart motor, I have replaced them in a starter motor(Pita), is it as complicated as it sounds?
Thx again
John

Ps, Is it possible the brushes are just very very corroded or rusted and is not making good contact? The cart was stored under a covered roof but stored outside for a few years....

Did you connect A1 and F1 and connect A2 and F2 and apply 12+ to A2 and 12v - to A1? I think you may have done the test for a series motor.

[Mooncarter]

Like this. But you don't need 3 batteries. 12v will do.

[sicrx69]

The biggest issue I ran into with starter motors and bushes, was getting the bushes back into the motor housing while holding all four in. It was definitely a pita but doable. But if I take it apart and its junk, I am am not out much anyway...
John

[sicrx69]

I did a little research on replacing the brushes and actually does not look that bad. I seen one with a towel trick that I assume keeps the brushes back from the armature while you put on the casing. Forgive me if my terms are a little off. Anyways, just out of curiosity sake, I am going to remove the rest of the motor and take a look on the inside. Is there any way to test/identify if they are the culprit once I disassemble the motor?
John

[sicrx69]

Originally Posted by Mooncarter

Did you connect A1 and F1 and connect A2 and F2 and apply 12+ to A2 and 12v - to A1? I think you may have done the test for a series motor.

I hooked a jumper wire from f1 to a2...
Then I placed a positive wire from a 12 v battery to f2 and the negative to a1.


Although my battery is s1 and s2...it appears to be s=f.
John

[Fairtax4me]

When you get the end cap off you'll see the brushes and if they're worn out or damaged you'll be able to tell right away. Worn out brushes will be very short and the brush wires will be all the way at the end of the slots in the brush holders.

Getting the new ones together can be a bit tricky. The easy way is to put them in the holder just enough that the brush spring rests against the side of the brush and the spring will old the brush instead of pushing it in. The trick with these is to get the motor armature in just the right spot, release the brushes, and then keep the armature from moving too much while you get the end plate back in place and get the bearing retainer screws in.