Another mysterious problem for the xperts

[Fairtax4me]

Originally Posted by sicrx69

I hooked a jumper wire from f1 to a2...
Then I placed a positive wire from a 12 v battery to f2 and the negative to a1.


Although my battery is s1 and s2...it appears to be s=f.
John

Did you mean your motor has S1 and S2?


Shouldn't be that way on a Precedent. "S" terminals indicate a series wound motor.
"F" Terminals (for Field) indicate a Sepex motor, the Field windings are separate. They do not work anywhere near the same.

[Htownblue]

OP needs to do continuity tests between ALL motor posts and post the results (with wires unhooked of course).
Next OP needs to clarify his solenoid test and clarify if he had continuity between the large posts AFTER he heard/gave voltage to small terminals and heard the click.

These two things will help all of us give the best advice and likely help him fix it. Some misinformation/convoluted info in this thread is clouding the best diagnosis, in my opinion. I think he has a motor issue myself....

[sicrx69]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Did you mean your motor has S1 and S2?


Shouldn't be that way on a Precedent. "S" terminals indicate a series wound motor.
"F" Terminals (for Field) indicate a Sepex motor, the Field windings are separate. They do not work anywhere near the same.

Yes sorry I misspoke and meant motor not battery. In actuality, the letters on the sticker for the posts on my motor are wore off. The ID tag was not, I googled the ID tag and found the exact motor with the letters for the post still in tact. Yes, it says f1 f2 a1 a2. Attached is a picture of the ID tag.

As for the continuity test for the solenoid. I went ahead and redid the test to rule that out. I took a jumper from the Positive main and negative main from the battery bank (51v) and placed them on solenoid. It clicks, just as it does in the cart. I then checked for continuity between the large posts and yes it does beep(show continuity.)

I hope this clarify any of my confusing previous posts. Thanks again for everyone help.
John

[Mooncarter]

Originally Posted by sicrx69

I hooked a jumper wire from f1 to a2...
Then I placed a positive wire from a 12 v battery to f2 and the negative to a1.


Although my battery is s1 and s2...it appears to be s=f.
John

That is a sepex motor. Look at the diagram. You did not test it correctly.

[sicrx69]

Not sure what diagram you are referring to but researching sepex motor, I see how the testing is different. I am not sure I have encountered one of these motors yet...
I will see about getting it tested properly.
Thank you,
John

[NoleFan4Ever]

Here are the instructions I give everyone for testing Sepex/Series motors. Place the Run/Tow switch in "Tow", (If you have one) then disconnect the pack and then all the cables from the motor. (Be sure to double wrench every motor post/stud when breaking them lose or you may break them off. Spray them down with penetrating oil prior to doing it). If you have a Series motor it will have S1/S2 in place of F1/F2.

Get out your DVM and set it to the Continuity setting and:
- Test between A1 and A2 (Beep)
- Test between F1 and F2 (Beep)
- Test between A1 and F1 (No Beep)
- Test between A1 to Motor Case (No Beep)
- Test between F1 to Motor Case (No Beep)

Now flip your meter to Ohms/Resistance and:
- Test between F1 and F2 and you should get 1.0 to 1.6 Ohms (Sepex only)

If all those are correct as stated above then you can test the motor:

To test run a Series motor:
With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to S1. Then connect 12 volts positive to A2 and 12 volts negative to S2. (swap S1 and S2 to change rotation direction) You may want to have a disconnect switch in-line with the power supply as some do and some do not....

To test run a Sepex (regen) motor:
With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to F1 and then a jumper from A2 to F2. Connect 12 volts positive to A1/F1 and 12 volts negative to A2/F2. (swap polarities to change motor rotation) You may want to have a disconnect switch in-line with the power supply as some do and some do not.... And remember that you are only "testing" the motor so you don't want or need to engage it very long.

This is applicable for either type motor as long as you pay attention to which you have.

[Mooncarter]

Originally Posted by sicrx69

Not sure what diagram you are referring to but researching sepex motor, I see how the testing is different. I am not sure I have encountered one of these motors yet...
I will see about getting it tested properly.
Thank you,
John

I supplied the diagram in post#16. But, Nolefan has supplied what you need to know/do in greater detail. I would do as he suggests.

[Fairtax4me]

Originally Posted by Mooncarter

That is a sepex motor. Look at the diagram. You did not test it correctly.

Good catch MC. I misread that part before.

[CP241]

Originally Posted by sicrx69

.

I removed the solenoid and tested it out of cart by energizing the small leads, hearing a click and then testing for continuity between the large posts. (no beep).

Maybe I'm under thinking it, but I'm still caught up on this. If the solenoid clicks, but theres no beeping (no continuity) between the 2 large posts, the solenoid is bad. Test the motor all you want, it's not going to change the fact that it's not getting the juice it needs to turn.

Am I missing something or just over simplifying?

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by CP241

Maybe I'm under thinking it, but I'm still caught up on this. If the solenoid clicks, but theres no beeping (no continuity) between the 2 large posts, the solenoid is bad. Test the motor all you want, it's not going to change the fact that it's not getting the juice it needs to turn.

Am I missing something or just over simplifying?

You are correct. The bridge is stuck....