No Power When Key Switch Turned On

[clnorris75]

I have just finished installing an Alltrax 48400 SR controller, 400amp solenoid, and HD SW202 F&R switch. I now do not have any power at the key switch. The cart is a 36V, 2007 series TXT. Below are some pics to show the current state.

When I put the key in and switched it on there was nothing. No activity at the pedal, and my USB charger that displays voltage that is connected to my 12-volt reducer does not come on.

I have checked and rechecked wiring and I cannot find the problem. Are there some checks I can go through to try and isolate the issue?

Appreciate all the experts here and looking forward to getting my buggy up and running!

[Sergio]

The cable #3 (top left on your picture) is on the wrong post.

Also, that wiring diagram is wrong, cables #3 and #4 need to be swapped around.

Keep copper to copper connections, the washers go on top of the cable terminals.

There is s nut missing in your reversing contactor picture.

[Johnhguerry]

I have a similar issue going right now. I am reading 4.2V on the voltmeter installed on the cart. When I insert the key and try to go forward or reverse, the voltmeter drops to nothing and the cart does not move.

Charger works like a champ. Lights turn on as expected. Handheld Voltmeter read appropriate voltage at battery terminals.

NOTE: my wiring on the solenoid is mirrored yours. You connect the plus to the side I read as the negative and vice versus.

I just upgrade my 98 Ezgo with the a SR48400 and 400a Solenoid.

[clnorris75]

Originally Posted by Sergio

The cable #3 (top left on your picture) is on the wrong post.

Also, that wiring diagram is wrong, cables #3 and #4 need to be swapped around.

Keep copper to copper connections, the washers go on top of the cable terminals.

There is s nut missing in your reversing contactor picture.

Thank you for the heads up Sergio. I have swapped the cables, placed the nut on the terminal and put the cables copper to copper.

Still no power at the key switch.

[orangeman6]

Did you get this stuff from Scotty? That install sheet is not his, which has a note about connecting a couple of wires that weren’t originally together. I think it was blue and red, but I’ll have to dig up the diagram to recall. I did mine too long ago to remember without the sheet. Whatever it was, if you didn’t do it, it resulted in what you have now.

Sergio is an electrical genius, so he’ll most likely straighten you out.

[orangeman6]

Just looked at your posted diagram and red wire comes from your charger interlock. That’s where it all starts. I think that used to go to one of the micro switches. You have to connect that to the blue wire that brings voltage to the key switch. I see in your other pic that you have them connected, but something is wrong if you have nothing at the switch. Trace it from the interlock.

[Sergio]

Put a meter on that wire cap (blue and red wires) and check for voltage, if 0v the reed switch in the charger receptacle is bad.

Make sure no cable is placed on that top left post on your reversing contactor picture.

Fix all the other multi-connector places:

Pack negative battery post should have main cable first then the other small ring connectors.

Fuse should have main cable first then small wires.

No washers under the cables on the Solenoid big posts.

The Controller connectors are designed to have the cables connected on top of the tabs where you can verify a flat connection and not stress the tab with the turning bolt head.

[clnorris75]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Put a meter on that wire cap (blue and red wires) and check for voltage, if 0v the reed switch in the charger receptacle is bad.

Make sure no cable is placed on that top left post on your reversing contactor picture.

Fix all the other multi-connector places:

Pack negative battery post should have main cable first then the other small ring connectors.

Fuse should have main cable first then small wires.

No washers under the cables on the Solenoid big posts.

The Controller connectors are designed to have the cables connected on top of the tabs where you can verify a flat connection and not stress the tab with the turning bolt head.

I will check the voltage this evening when I get home and report back. Some quick questions,

1. When you say "Make sure no cable is placed on that top left post on your reversing contactor picture." That cable needs to drop down to the post directly below it correct?

2. On pack positive, when you refer to the main cable are you referring to the cable from the solenoid or the cable from the charging receptacle?


Thanks!

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by clnorris75

I will check the voltage this evening when I get home and report back. Some quick questions,

1. When you say "Make sure no cable is placed on that top left post on your reversing contactor picture." That cable needs to drop down to the post directly below it correct?

2. On pack positive, when you refer to the main cable are you referring to the cable from the solenoid or the cable from the charging receptacle?


Thanks!

The Reversing Contactor posts with the L bracket should only have a single cable connected to them, Your picture shows two cables on the one on the left side.

Since Your Reversing Contactor has magnetic blowouts, evident by the + symbol printed near the two top posts connected by the straight copper bar, it is imperative the highest voltage potential cable connection goes there.

You need to run the cable from the Controller B+ to those two posts connected with the straight bar.

The cable from Motor A2 post goes to the bottom connector on the same side as the two posts connected with the straight bar, which is indicated as #3 on your diagram.

That bottom terminal can be on either side of the Contactor and Yours is on the opposite side as the drawing.

The purpose of a wire connection is to efficiently transfer current so You always place the cable with the most current carrying capacity in direct contact with the surface of the terminal: Battery post, Solenoid Post, Controller terminal or fuse.

Putting a smaller ring connector underneath the big cables reduces the surface contact area which creates a poor connection that could generate heat under high current.

On the fuse put the cable to Solenoid first, then the charging wire then any other smaller wires.

[clnorris75]

Originally Posted by Sergio

The Reversing Contactor posts with the L bracket should only have a single cable connected to them, Your picture shows two cables on the one on the left side.

Since Your Reversing Contactor has magnetic blowouts, evident by the + symbol printed near the two top posts connected by the straight copper bar, it is imperative the highest voltage potential cable connection goes there.

You need to run the cable from the Controller B+ to those two posts connected with the straight bar.

The cable from Motor A2 post goes to the bottom connector on the same side as the two posts connected with the straight bar, which is indicated as #3 on your diagram.

That bottom terminal can be on either side of the Contactor and Yours is on the opposite side as the drawing.

The purpose of a wire connection is to efficiently transfer current so You always place the cable with the most current carrying capacity in direct contact with the surface of the terminal: Battery post, Solenoid Post, Controller terminal or fuse.

Putting a smaller ring connector underneath the big cables reduces the surface contact area which creates a poor connection that could generate heat under high current.

On the fuse put the cable to Solenoid first, then the charging wire then any other smaller wires.

Perfect, thank you for an awesome explanation and clarity. I will get that addressed when I get home this evening and post new pics.