2003 TXT won't run

[hunwright]

I need help finding this nagging problem.
Cart: TXT, PDS, 2003, Sepex, Shunt wound motor, 36V, Curtis 1206mx controller (new- rebuilt)
Beginning of problems: Burnt a battery terminal due to loose connection, replaced with all new batteries (they were old so probably needed to be done anyway); Began running slower and slower and finally would not move, it sits as we chat.
Testing and Repairs so far:

Wiring: I've checked and rechecked continuity of the wires nearly everywhere. I performed voltage tests as per many instructions. Most have been OK but it was hard to get good readings through the "J" connectors.

Solenoid: replaced, new one clicks upon doing a jumper test but not otherwise, Pack Voltage (PV) >36 on one side of solenoid, I assume it is OK.

FWD/REV switch: checks out OK but does not get PV. I have a resister but no diode attached. I have one but do not know if I need/must attach new one.

TOW/RUN switch: According to the wiring diagrams the colors of the wires in the J3 plug are wrong, I rewired the connectors on the switch to activate each side when put into Run mode and not when in Tow mode. That seemed to make sense and there was no diagram to say otherwise.

BEEPER: It makes a sound when voltage hits it but will not give beep codes. It did once a long time ago. It will not sound when REV is chosen.
Throttle switch: Has continuity but I cannot get voltage.

ITS: Replaced but have no idea if it works.

Controller: It came with a bunch of tests that MUST be passed before it is to be installed. I performed the tests and it failed. So I tore the motor down and found lots of graphite dust. I cleaned it thoroughly and replaced a connector bolt that was damaged. The tests for the motor are now in range though the brushes have worn down to about 3/4 in.

J3: EZGO instructions pg F-9 shows Pin1-RED (mine is RED); Pin2-RED/YEL (mine is WHT); Pin3 - RED/WHT (mine is ORG); AND Pin4-ORG/RED (mine is YEL). Rewired Run/Tow switch to have RED & WHT (Pins 1 & 2) on one side; and ORG & YEL (Pins 3 & 4) on the other side.
Curtis instructions has testing for Pin2 & Pin4; each have PV.

J1: ….............Sorry, this has gone on too far... Frustrated in Oregon

[georgia088]

Have you checked reed switch? Not sure what you mean by solenoid clicks when it’s jumped across? When you jump across and then press pedal will it go? What is pack voltage?

[Phil_Billy]

I have a PDS trouble shooting guide. you need to use a meter and check voltages at the controller inputs to isolate the problem. I hope this helps.

[hunwright]

Thanks for the replies. Pack voltage is 36+. One of the tests is to apply voltage across the coil terminals of the solenoid. If it clicks, the solenoid is good. It does but I did not try using the accelerator peddle at the same time. Will do.
I have the PDS troubleshoot guide. Have used it extensively. Tomorrow I will continue and try to document what order I do the tests and the results. If any thing comes up I'll share.
Thanks.

[cgtech]

Anyone who says a valid solenoid check is "if it clicks, its good" is gonna cost you money without fixing it. Even ezgo says to check input & output voltages in that guide. well, I guess, "if it clicks, its good", get out the credit card. And "its 36v+" isnt gonna get you far, a fully charged pack with one bad battery might sit at 36.2v, all signs point to "you arent ready to properly diagnose this problem". Time to up your game on diagnosis with more accurate info. And more in depth tests, like "voltage out of the solenoid, before & after the pedal is pressed", "accurate voltage numbers", "individual battery voltage (to the tenth of a volt or better '6.xx'", "voltage drop when pedal is pressed". Sorry, just gonna have to step it up a little, to fix it with free help. I understand you may have never done this before, but we have, and we will need better info.

Sorry if I came across as a jerk, I really didnt mean to, but we cant do anything without good info, and good tests. It would only lead you down the road of buying unnecessary parts. (And buying the cheapest part, leading slowly to the most expensive is a horrible way to fix things, but maybe a great way to upgrade a cart)

[hunwright]

Thanks cgtech. I take no offense to your request for better data. I am on another track right now. I called the controller company and had a great online diagnostic test session with Jeremy. Bottom line is it looks like the motor is bad.