2008 CC Precedent - bad controller?

[PingEye3]

Originally Posted by Chalmettian

The guy at the cart shop is saying the controller is bad because they cant clear any codes with the programmer. Does this make sense?

Do I buy a refurb Curtis 1510-5201 controller and hope for the best, or do I upgrade to aftermarket (ie- Alltrax) and cut my losses?

Thanks again for the help!

Get the Alltrax XCT 400 & 200A solenoid from David Hicks at Revolution Golf Cars to use with the stock motor and you will be extremely happy. If you want to stay stock, talk to him about a used replacement which he probably also has on hand.

[mgray70]

I personally wouldn't do a rebuild (repair). You won't have much more I'm a new Alltrax. If you do it yourself.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

[Chalmettian]

Ordered the Navitas 440A controller, 2 AWG cables, and 200A solenoid. I will be busy this weekend. I hope this is the fix and will report back. Thanks.

[s10xtremist]

Originally Posted by Chalmettian

Ordered the Navitas 440A controller, 2 AWG cables, and 200A solenoid. I will be busy this weekend. I hope this is the fix and will report back. Thanks.

Updates?

[Chalmettian]

Howdy folks, my apologies for not posting an update sooner. Things were going pretty well for a while. Unfortunately, I have returned because problems persist.

So I did have a few issues during installation. I believe the company sent the wrong cable lengths for my make/model cart. (I'm currently working on fixing this with the company I purchased from.) I had to cut holes in the cart so that the motor cables would reach the controller.

Anyway, I managed to get the Navitas 440A controller, 2 AWG cables (6 of the 8 provided), and 200A solenoid installed. Wow, what an improvement. The cart went from 18 mph to right about 30 mph at top speed. Impressive. I was happy. However, I was experiencing a surging problem. The cart would surge at fixed pedal height no matter the speed. Yes it was slightly annoying but my cart went 30 mph, so it didnt really bother me too much.

Fast forward to 2 weeks ago. Now the cart wont run at all. Very similar to the issues originally faced before the controller, wires, & solenoid. Push the pedal, solenoid clicks, nothing happens. Give the cart a push, then push the pedal, it runs very sporadically, jerks, not smooth at all. Very strange.

Does a setting in the Navitas app need to be adjusted? Is the motor bad? Is the MCOR bad? Speed sensor? Are the 2 thinner factory cables causing a problem?

As always, any help is greatly appreciated.

[Chalmettian]

Update: Speaking with Navitas support. Sent over data log via app. Awaiting response.

[PingEye3]

Originally Posted by Chalmettian

Howdy folks, my apologies for not posting an update sooner. Things were going pretty well for a while. Unfortunately, I have returned because problems persist.

So I did have a few issues during installation. I believe the company sent the wrong cable lengths for my make/model cart. (I'm currently working on fixing this with the company I purchased from.) I had to cut holes in the cart so that the motor cables would reach the controller.

Anyway, I managed to get the Navitas 440A controller, 2 AWG cables (6 of the 8 provided), and 200A solenoid installed. Wow, what an improvement. The cart went from 18 mph to right about 30 mph at top speed. Impressive. I was happy. However, I was experiencing a surging problem. The cart would surge at fixed pedal height no matter the speed. Yes it was slightly annoying but my cart went 30 mph, so it didnt really bother me too much.

Fast forward to 2 weeks ago. Now the cart wont run at all. Very similar to the issues originally faced before the controller, wires, & solenoid. Push the pedal, solenoid clicks, nothing happens. Give the cart a push, then push the pedal, it runs very sporadically, jerks, not smooth at all. Very strange.

Does a setting in the Navitas app need to be adjusted? Is the motor bad? Is the MCOR bad? Speed sensor? Are the 2 thinner factory cables causing a problem?

As always, any help is greatly appreciated.

You mentioned earlier post that you replaced the MCOR. If you bought a Chinese knockoff from Amazon instead of true Club Car, that could be your issue. First, try with KS off, pump pedal fast 15 times then power on and try it. If it runs smooth, then replace the MCOR and get it from David at Revolution Golf Cars, the Club Car guru.

Another possibility is a cracked magnet under the speed sensor. I have seen them broken and in 5-6 pieces, still clinging to the mounting bolt and the cart would drive but erratic. This is the top hat sensor style on the stock AMD motor. The GE motor has a different magnet and sensor and much harder to deal with magnet but not as prone to cracking.

[Sagelike]

Originally Posted by Chalmettian

2008 CC Precedent 48V with 4 x 12V new Trojan batts, SN PQ0827-xxxxxx, Curtis Model 1510-5201 controller

I purchased the cart in July. The cart ran mostly fine, but slightly jerky when taking off in forward or reverse. I assumed that was OK for a 12 year old cart. I installed a 6" lift kit and 23" tires on it. The cart was awesome. But over the course of several weeks, the cart would sometimes not work: batts fully charged, turn key on, put in F/R, push gas, nothing. To make things more interesting, if I pushed the gas while bouncing up and down on the seat, the cart would go, no problems. Well, it progressively got worse. The bouncing method doesnt work any more. So I started reading the BGW forums trying to troubleshoot. Sounded like a loose connection somewhere. I have changed the MCOR, ignition switch, and solenoid. However, during all of my troubleshooting, I never heard the solenoid click until after I installed the brand new one.

So here's where I am. I put the cart on jack stands, put in tow mode, disconnect the batts, let it sit for a few minutes. Then I reconnect batts, put in run, turn key switch, put in Forward, put screwdriver across solenoid, push pedal, the wheels turn, but only up to a certain speed. If I push the pedal too far, it stops. If I put it back in tow mode and let it sit for a few minutes, then flip it back to run, it will again run at a low speed but trip if pedal is pushed too far.

I also the checked motor. I have 1.8 ohms across F1/F2. Other posts showed no continuity.

Im running out of ideas and hoping that you experienced CC owners can help. I'm thinking it's something very simple. Thanks in advance.

I don't know if you've figured out your issue yet, but it describes one I've been dealing with intermittently for about 2 years and I just cured my problem. Its embarrassing to say, but my 'repair' consisted of cleaning the terminals on the tow/run switch. That's it.
I guess when trying to troubleshoot, I would temporarily restore the connection by flipping the switch so it complicated thewhole process. Hope yours is as easy (and cheap) to fix.
Cheers

[Fairtax4me]

Does the Navitas app show any faults?

First post sounds like the brushes are worn out or stuck in the motor, but I'm fairly certain it would have toasted itself by now if the brushes were causing a problem.