Cc ds 3 pole f/r rocker switch wiring ???

[IM4MOPAR]

upgrading my 2000.5 DS 48V, purchased the F/R conversion kit with SW202 contactor set and lever to rocker switch. I do not have or can't seem to find a wiring diagram to wire the rocker switch up( 3 terminal). I have tried to follow some previous threads, closest one I could find, Sergio mentions connecting the limit switch wiring together or taping it up to help another forum member out on keeping his wiring to a minimum. This helped a lot, but it didn't quite answer the wiring at the rocker switch issue I have. I'm also installing a 400A main contactor, Alltrax 48500 and a Plum Quik Grizzly and new cables-1awg. I'm sure it's simple, but I just don't want to fry anything!

[Sergio]

If You got your kit from a sponsor like ScottyB from CartsUnlimited.net he has many different wiring diagrams for the reversing contactor depending on what cart is being installed.

You mentioned a "kit", can You tell us what you have?

If Your FNR is only a 3-terminal SPDT, you will need a couple of diodes if You want the Reversing Contactor to only turn ON/OFF with the key switch.

I think that is the best option but it leaves open the possibility of forgetting the key switch ON which could damage the Reversing Contactor coil from over-heating.

The "easiest" way is to wire the key switch to the pedal micro switch and the pedal micro switch to the FNR center terminal.

That way the Reversing Contactor only turns ON/OFF with the pedal being pressed.

The downside is there is a lot more "clicking" and leaves open the possibility that you can change directions without releasing the pedal which would make the Reversing Contactor open/close under load possibly damaging the contacts.

The other important thing to observe is if your Reversing Contactor has magnetic blowouts, which is indicated by large "+" signs on the top cover near the two studs connected by the flat copper bar.

If it does You must connect the cable with the highest voltage potential, typically B+, to those studs.

[PingEye3]

[quote=Sergio;1770785]If You got your kit from a sponsor like ScottyB from CartsUnlimited.net he has many different wiring diagrams for the reversing contactor depending on what cart is being installed.

You mentioned a "kit", can You tell us what you have?

If Your FNR is only a 3-terminal SPDT, you will need a couple of diodes if You want the Reversing Contactor to only turn ON/OFF with the key switch. After the below exercise, I went to this method, however, I did not use diodes because I took KS power to FNR and to foot switch, rather than from FNR to FS via diodes and all is working well.

I think that is the best option but it leaves open the possibility of forgetting the key switch ON which could damage the Reversing Contactor coil from over-heating. Since I have wired it this way and with KS on, the FNR coil is energized when selected, thus on while cart is in use, is this an issue. I could see why the diodes were needed when wired as shown in the Alltrax drawing. I didn't use them and it is essentially the same thing only KS power direct instead of thru diodes.

The "easiest" way is to wire the key switch to the pedal micro switch and the pedal micro switch to the FNR center terminal. I found that this wiring method left the cart almost undrivable. As you pressed the pedal and the sol closed and then the FNR contactor, the cart was lurching, if you did it in a normal drive mode i.e. press pedal and take off. Awful to drive. If you pressed pedal as if to move the cart a few inches, it was smooth. See above comments for what I changed it to

That way the Reversing Contactor only turns ON/OFF with the pedal being pressed.

The downside is there is a lot more "clicking" and leaves open the possibility that you can change directions without releasing the pedal which would make the Reversing Contactor open/close under load possibly damaging the contacts.

The other important thing to observe is if your Reversing Contactor has magnetic blowouts, which is indicated by large "+" signs on the top cover near the two studs connected by the flat copper bar. My contactor has magnetic blowouts

If it does You must connect the cable with the highest voltage potential, typically B+, to those studs.

Hi Sergio,
Thanks for commenting on this as I just finished installing an SR300 (my first series cart with lithium upgrade) in a 2000 DS w/ stock motor. Please see comments above and let me know if you see any future problems. Cart is running great with the method above. Just want your scrutiny.

[Sergio]

The reason I mentioned the diodes for the SPDT is to put a diode anode in each of the "poles" of the SPDT switch and the two cathodes connected together would go to the Solenoid and Controller.

That way when the FNR changes directions it guarantees that both Controller and Solenoid are OFF.

As I mentioned in the post if you run the KSI power directly to the pedal then it is possible that the pedal may be down while switching directions (makes a good wheelie setup ), not that is likely, but possible.

I know the default setup ScottyB uses has the Reversing Contactor after the pedal so it goes ON/OFF every time the pedal cycles, I don't recall hearing issues like you mentioned but I never drove a setup like that either.

If I had a Series cart I would use that "delayed" release idea I posted, for $30 it eliminates just about all of the clicking during normal use, extends the life of the solenoid/reversing contactor and eliminates any possibility of leaving them powered for an extended period of time.

[PingEye3]

Originally Posted by Sergio

The reason I mentioned the diodes for the SPDT is to put a diode anode in each of the "poles" of the SPDT switch and the two cathodes connected together would go to the Solenoid and Controller.

That way when the FNR changes directions it guarantees that both Controller and Solenoid are OFF.

As I mentioned in the post if you run the KSI power directly to the pedal then it is possible that the pedal may be down while switching directions (makes a good wheelie setup ), not that is likely, but possible. That is what it acted like when wired like Scotty shows and I could not change anything to make it better in the Toolkit, including the Clear Auto Cal, so I rewired it as described and all is working great.

I know the default setup ScottyB uses has the Reversing Contactor after the pedal so it goes ON/OFF every time the pedal cycles, I don't recall hearing issues like you mentioned but I never drove a setup like that either.
If I had a Series cart I would use that "delayed" release idea I posted, for $30 it eliminates just about all of the clicking during normal use, extends the life of the solenoid/reversing contactor and eliminates any possibility of leaving them powered for an extended period of time.

See comment above

[PingEye3]

Another thing I did; since the FNR switch was DPDT, I used the second set of contacts (R side only) and connected the original orange and red/white (from buzzer) to those contacts for the reverse buzzer operation. No need to repower buzzer as indicated in Scotty drawing. It is working now just as the LS2 did on the old mechanical FNR switch. So much easier.

[Sergio]

A DPDT switch does give you a lot more flexibility as far as wiring the pedal switch/buzzer etc.

One valid point that Scotty made and he had actual cases of it happening is that forgetting the Key Switch ON overnight just one time with the cart in gear can be detrimental to the Reversing Contactor coil.

Interesting about the jerking effect, can not think of a possible cause for that behavior.

[IM4MOPAR]

Sergio, I purchased the kit from Revolution carts, SW202 and the 3 pole F/R rocker switch, I think I understand your explanation from another thread from Nov 2017, using the limit switches for the switch power and controller B-. If I understand correctly, I will run the F and R wires from the switch to the corresponding sides of the contactor on the pos. term opposite the stripe(red) side of the diodes. I will not be using the buzzer as it is a hunting buggy build.
I am intrigued, my contactor does have the big + marks on each one where the bus bar is. According to the alltrax series generic w/ sw202 wiring diagram, B+ does not go to the + bus bar, but from the controller to the motor. The applicable wiring diagram for the CC DS series included in the alltrax manual shows the stock lever F/R switch which is totally different from the contactor wiring. thanks for the help.

[Sergio]

It can be a little confusing, but that is why I said the "highest voltage potential" connection goes on the + side of the contactor.

If You notice on that diagram from Alltrax (below), the Controller B+ goes to Motor A1, the other end of that motor winding A2 goes to the + side of the Reversing Contactor.

That A2 connection is the "highest voltage potential" of all the wires on the Reversing Contactor since the B+ cable in that case is not connected directly to the Reverse Contactor.

https://alltraxinc.com/wp-content/up...-REV-SW202.pdf

Your description is correct, just be certain that the positive wire from the FNR SPDT switch goes with the "striped" end of the diode.

[IM4MOPAR]

got it all wired up, did a check for forward and reverse movement, both worked
and no smoke! does have a lag from the time the main contactor clicks before movement, being that the cart is 20 yrs old, is it possible the potentiometer in the throttle assy could be worn in a spot? It seems to take off better, more torque definitely, seems a little faster, put the charger on it last night, and will try again this afternoon, gotta put the roof/seat backs and rear seat back on then retest. Thanks for the help getting me wired up , I'll try to get some pics loaded up this evening or tomorrow.