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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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09-02-2012, 11:43 PM | #11 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: FT Lauderdale FL.
Posts: 16,416
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Re: EZ GO Electric Cart Clicks but NO movement Forward or Reverse!!
This is not an answer to the question that was asked,, a bit over?? what does that mean,, and dropped to about 5v, these are not answers,, batteries only last about 5 years, and yours are over due, when a battery drops to ABOUT 5 volts under a 100 amp load, that means your batteries are no good, when you step on the go pedal the motor is asking for 200 - 250 amps, so if your batteries are dropping to 5 v with a 100 amp load what are they dropping to with a 250 amp load??
here is a state of charge chart so you will better understand what the batteries volts should be, because 6v on a full charge, this is time to be charged, not time to drive the cart, You need new batteries, this is half your problem A full charge is 6.37, and at 6.05 is time to recharge, hope this helps Quote:
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09-03-2012, 03:45 AM | #12 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: EZ GO Electric Cart Clicks but NO movement Forward or Reverse!!
Town, it sounds like you have at least two problems.
1. A bad connection in the throttle circuit. 2. Very sick batteries. The throttle box does two things: A microswitch in it closes the solenoid. That part is working if the solenoid is clicking. The ITS coil and plunger tells the controller how much current to pass. That is the part that doesn't seem to be working all the time. Like Bowslayer said, jack it up and wiggle the wires. (Hint: the Black and White wires are the ones that connect the ITS to the controller) Like rib33024 said, approximate voltages don't tell us much when mere fractions of a volt have significant meaning. On the other hand, the approximations you gave, do paint a very dismal picture of your batteries. A fully charged 225AH 6V battery (6.37V) in useable condition, will produce 100A for well over an hour before it drops to 5.25V. You state your batteries went from "a bit above 6VDC" down to "about 5 VDC and stayed there" in 15 seconds. If that information is anywhere near factual, your batteries are well beyond their usable life. |
09-04-2012, 08:38 PM | #13 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 10
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Re: EZ GO Electric Cart Clicks but NO movement Forward or Reverse!!
Bowslayer, thanks for your input. I will try it. It is ok at the moment, but I am ready to try it. I appreciate your comments. Take care. I will post if anything new.
Town |
09-04-2012, 08:47 PM | #14 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 10
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Re: EZ GO Electric Cart Clicks but NO movement Forward or Reverse!!
Hey Guys,
The load tester I was using is older and the instructions were to run it up to 100 Amps for 15 secs and look for a drop below a voltage listed on the chart of the load tester. I will get some better equip. and keep moving on. Thanks to all of you for your input. I will keep everybody in the loop. I am learning a lot and enjoy the communication with this site. Take care and hope everyone had a good Labor Day! Respectfully, Town |
09-05-2012, 07:23 AM | #15 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: EZ GO Electric Cart Clicks but NO movement Forward or Reverse!!
Unless you are actually going into the cart repair business as a source of income, all you really need to maintain your own cart is a DMM (Digital Multimeter).
Even then, the DMM doesn't have to be an expensive one. Between the Voltmeter functions and to a lesser extent, the Ohmmeter functions, you can troubleshoot the cart's entire electrical system, including batteries and charger. There is nothing wrong with your load tester, the problem is that the chart accompanying it is set up for car batteries (SLI - Start/Lights/Ignition) rather than deep cycle batteries. On the other hand, using your cart as the load and a voltmeter, you can load test your cart batteries and discover their health. Along the same line of reasoning, about the only thing you can find out with a hydrometer that you cannot determine with a voltmeter is which cell in a battery is bad. Since you cannot replace just one cell in a battery, does knowing which one of the three (or four or six) cells in the sealed box is bad, do anything productive? (Technically, if you can access the conductors connecting the cells together, you can determine which cell is bad using a voltmeter.) To each their own, but I prefer to let the people who repair carts for a living buy the $pecialized test equipment and rent it along with their time when I need more than a DMM. Added: To be technically correct, a single cell or cells can be replaced in a battery, it just isn't economically feasible with small batteries like those used in carts and cars. In bathtub sized batteries costing thousands of dollar each, replacing a bad cell is a common practice. In fact, in some applications, the cells are stand alone units. Last edited by JohnnieB; 09-05-2012 at 07:31 AM.. Reason: Added comment |
09-05-2012, 03:27 PM | #16 | |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bunnell, Florida
Posts: 2,408
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Re: EZ GO Electric Cart Clicks but NO movement Forward or Reverse!!
Quote:
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12-16-2016, 07:09 PM | #17 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 2
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Re: EZ GO Electric Cart Clicks but NO movement Forward or Reverse!!
Hi - I'm having the same problem. '99 EZGO TXT with DCS system. Battery voltages are fine (37.9v) and each battery is at 6.2 - 6.3 v. So, while troubleshooting with a DVM, I'm wondering how in the world the solenoid has battery voltage on each side regardless of pedal position? Anyway, I jacked up the back end, I found this out: For forward, the motor will run when pedal pressed but very very slow. Same for reverse. Wife says it worked great going out to the barn yesterday and when she tried to get back to the house it wouldn't move. Battery charge at that time showed about a 3/4 charge on the meter. I've since charged the batteries. I also cleaned all the battery cables, connections. Any ideas? I see that there are "stickeys" mentioned for manuals? Where are these stickeys?
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12-17-2016, 02:35 AM | #18 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,300
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Re: EZ GO Electric Cart Clicks but NO movement Forward or Reverse!!
The stickys are at the top of the first page of the ezgo forum. I'll leave your other questions to the experts but I know there's a step by step troubleshooting guide in there. Follow what you can and post what you did along with the results.
Good luck |
12-17-2016, 10:31 AM | #19 | |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: EZ GO Electric Cart Clicks but NO movement Forward or Reverse!!
Quote:
2. A fully charged 36V battery pack measures 38.2V or higher. Your batteries are 97% charged, but that should run the cart. 3. There is a 250Ω resistor connected between the two large terminals on the solenoid to keep the filter capacitors in the controller charged, so you will measure about 3V to 5V less than full battery pack voltage when solenoid contacts are open and full battery pack voltage when they are closed. If you are truly measuring FULL battery pack voltage with pedal up or down, the solenoid contacts are welded and the solenoid needs to be replaced. 4. Many things could cause the symptoms described. a. Bad controller b. Bad battery pack c. Bad cables d. Bad ITS sensor e. Bad inline connector from pedal box f. Bad motor g. Bad Solenoid h. Bad bearings i. Bad brakes k. etc. etc. etc. 5. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...g-manuals.html Attached is the service manual for your cart. Troubleshooting tree starts on page F-9, but the first thing I would check is the battery voltage under load. What is the pack voltage at rest? What is the pack voltage when pedal is on floor and tires are turning slowly? |
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01-01-2017, 06:03 PM | #20 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 2
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Re: EZ GO Electric Cart Clicks but NO movement Forward or Reverse!!
Ornageman & JohnnieB - thanks for the great information and the manual! I was able to find this somewhere on the web (I can't remember which site) and this narrowed it down to the controller. Ordered another but found bad from stock (wheels would only go in reverse but switching the white/black -or F1/F2- wires the wheels would go forward). So now both are in getting refurbished. I'm thinking about buying another controller as the better half is complaining about the down time ...
UPDATE: The .pdf file I was referring to is too large for the site. I wish I could post it for all as I find it very useful. Leave a note if you'd like me to email it to you. Mike |
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