Identifying 2000 TXT EZGO Model, Increasing Speed/Torque, Fixing F/R switch

[rib33024]

You can fix your F/R switch with a couple micro switches. Or with a DPDT switch. Or you can in stall a reversing contactor and a switch on the dash for your Forward and reverse

Some of our sponsors here sell the reversing contactor

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/site-sponsors.php

Originally Posted by iainlbc

Appreciate your input. Do you have any place I can call or order online a FR switch? Should I try contacting EZGO directly? I checked out buggies unlimited previously and couldn't find a puck style. I wonder if I even need this puck style thing or can just switch to a newer F/R switch with a rocker and stuff.

Ill keep digging in the forum im sure this info is somewhere!

Cheers,
iain

[kgsc]

Go with the dpdt switch.

[Zincode]

Originally Posted by rib33024

Ok When it breaks Junk It



The only reason your having so many problems with your DCS cart , Is because of the trailers and the load your are pulling with the DCS cart. Not made for that. [emoji106]

I totally agree with you. I work my golf carts very hard. Harder than most people would ever subject them to. However, I also worked at golf course and played golf; Granted they are new lease fleet carts but some of the loads they are subjected too with over stuffed bags and over weigh golfers may bring them close to same loads. I guess I need to clarify my intent: whenever you you talk about improvements to an older cart, you need to consider the age of the cart. And performance increase to an older cart is going to stress older worn components. Can the cart handle it yes but expect failures along the way. Kind of an unrelated topic but my ezgo MPT1000 is nothing more than a TXT frame & axle with upgraded motor and controller. Its rated to carry 1000 pounds and it handles my loads fine. The other carts handle the same loads with ease. Brings back to your comment about my use of carts. I agree I overwork carts but in the end I feel it's the age of the cart not really the design eventhough textron only used that system a few years.

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[rib33024]

Originally Posted by kgsc

Go with the dpdt switch.

That's the easiest way, and the cheapest way

[iainlbc]

Here are pics of the controller.







Seems like a Curtis replacement for this one:

https://www.golfcartking.com/ezgo-tx...-oem-73144g06/

So definitely a DCS.

Based on reading around the forum for previous successful DCS upgrades, it seems like my upgrade path will be:

Phase 1:
- Reverse contractor or DPDT (does it matter which when a beefed up controller/more amperage is in the near-ish future?)
- Replace drum brakes or upgrade to disc (need to check that the current wheels have the clearance for disc kit). Currently the cart does not stop fast enough to safely add more speed/torque
- DC step down converter that supports 36 or 48V pack

Phase 2 (ScottyB order):
- New 2G or 4G cables.
- Replace any other cables that are in bad shape (research what gauge to use)
- Alltrax 400 controller & solenoid
- Better state of charge meter - show only voltage no LED bars (maybe one that can take 36, 42, or 48V?)

I have a feeling this will provide sufficient power, if not, increase voltage/pack upgrade to 48V (maybe lithium?), and potentially a new motor.

In terms of older components wearing and not handling these upgrades well...Should I be concerned with anything in particular or validating/replacing preventively other than brakes?

Thanks for the continued help, exciting times.

[Sir Nuke]

Originally Posted by iainlbc

Based on reading around the forum for previous successful DCS upgrades, it seems like my upgrade path will be:

Phase 1:
- Reverse contractor or DPDT (does it matter which when a beefed up controller/more amperage is in the near-ish future?)
- Replace drum brakes or upgrade to disc (need to check that the current wheels have the clearance for disc kit). Currently the cart does not stop fast enough to safely add more speed/torque
- DC step down converter that supports 36 or 48V pack

Phase 2 (ScottyB order):
- New 2G or 4G cables.- Replace any other cables that are in bad shape (research what gauge to use)
- Alltrax 400 controller & solenoid
- Better state of charge meter - show only voltage no LED bars (maybe one that can take 36, 42, or 48V?)

I have a feeling this will provide sufficient power, if not, increase voltage/pack upgrade to 48V (maybe lithium?), and potentially a new motor.

In terms of older components wearing and not handling these upgrades well...Should I be concerned with anything in particular or validating/replacing preventively other than brakes?

Thanks for the continued help, exciting times.

go with the 2 ga. the difference in price is minimal AND that way you are already set up for any and all upgrades you could/would do in the future.

the SOC meters that Scotty sells are good all the way to 60v.....so get one of his.

[kgsc]

Originally Posted by kgsc

And More !! Look here at post number 12 http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...-issues-2.html The FNR can be replaced with a DPDT switch and housing made for a Club Car, or at least that is what I have used.. About $25 in parts

Phase1 Read above.

As for brakes yours probably just need adjustments. Take the hubs off and clean everything. Make sure the star wheels can turn freely. Tighten them to where you can barely g3t the hub on and reassemble. Once back together pump the brake pedal as hard as you can and it should finish adjusting.

[iainlbc]

Originally Posted by Sir Nuke

go with the 2 ga. the difference in price is minimal AND that way you are already set up for any and all upgrades you could/would do in the future.



the SOC meters that Scotty sells are good all the way to 60v.....so get one of his.

Will do! Thanks [emoji106]


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[Sir Nuke]

Originally Posted by kgsc

Phase1 Read above.

As for brakes yours probably just need adjustments. Take the hubs off and clean everything. Make sure the star wheels can turn freely. Tighten them to where you can barely g3t the hub on and reassemble. Once back together pump the brake pedal as hard as you can and it should finish adjusting.

and Iain, do as kgse suggests above.....and when you get the drums off look closely at the shoes and how much material is left, it may do to replace the shoes. as properly adjusted drums can stop a cart quite quick. I still have drums, and can lock up my brakes if I need to, no problem!

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by iainlbc

Phase 1:
- Reverse contractor or DPDT (does it matter which when a beefed up controller/more amperage is in the near-ish future?)
- Replace drum brakes or upgrade to disc (need to check that the current wheels have the clearance for disc kit). Currently the cart does not stop fast enough to safely add more speed/torque
- DC step down converter that supports 36 or 48V pack

Phase 2 (ScottyB order):
- New 2G or 4G cables.
- Replace any other cables that are in bad shape (research what gauge to use)
- Alltrax 400 controller & solenoid
- Better state of charge meter - show only voltage no LED bars (maybe one that can take 36, 42, or 48V?)

I have a feeling this will provide sufficient power, if not, increase voltage/pack upgrade to 48V (maybe lithium?), and potentially a new motor.

In terms of older components wearing and not handling these upgrades well...Should I be concerned with anything in particular or validating/replacing preventively other than brakes?

Thanks for the continued help, exciting times.

Phase-1:
Reversing contactors are for Series Drive carts and you have a Sepex Drive, so a DP/DT-center off switch is the only option other than the OEM hockey puck system. Attached is a drawing of how to wire switch.

Dick brake kits need 10" or larger wheels. Drum brakes are okay if they are in good health. Also, they have some help from regen braking in sepex drive carts.

Phase-2:
Replace all 10 high current cables. 2Ga is better than 4Ga.

Unless the insulation is worn, the OEM F1&F2 cables are adequate.

The fan is an option on the XCT48400-DCS and standard on the XCT48500-DCS, so check the pricing with fan.

An XCT controller work at 36V, 42V and 48V. So does a MZJ400 solenoid. In other words, those two will run at 36V now and 48V later.

A DVM type battery meter will work for any voltage from about 7V up to 99V, or so.

The stock DCS motor has good torque. Get the rest of the cart set up the way you want it and then go with a motor based on that setup.