Another 36v to 48v question.....

[cgtech]

Originally Posted by chloe

Sirnuke,cgtech; agreed, it's capable. But cruising for miles is not intermittent running. It's constant. More important, it's the only thing he has listed not rated for the even higher amp. But capability is what is necessary. I concede to being over ruled.

If you have a huge, oversized solenoid in your cart, i like it (destroy all bottlenecks is a good attitude). Just saying his is plenty adequate, not a restriction.

[scottyb]

Here is some flow capacity information for the DCX controls below. The MZJ200 solenoid is rated at 200a continuous and 800a peak. It a good match, & one that Alltrax suggests.

[chloe]

Thanks Scottyb. That's good info.

Marlin035, have you load tested your battery pack?

[marlin035]

Thanks for all the information.....been away for several days and just getting back into the swing of things.

Couple things...

I will need to upgrade the solenoid as it is a 36v MZJ200... What is the best one for my needs?

I am a bit puzzled by Sir Nukes range.....if that is standard, then I need to evaluate my battery pack, as I may not need the extra 12 volts if there is a supply issue. I may be able to get 10-11 miles and the it starts to run down. Batteries are coded "D5" supposedly installed in June of this year. I need to track down a load tester....I am assuming that I need to disconnect all the batteries and test them individually?

If I can get the range out of a properly operating 36v cart I would prefer that.....

[cgtech]

An automotive-style battery load tester is not going to help you at all for batteries that run 11+ miles. That type of tester is only powerful enough to reveal a "totally-shot" golf cart battery.

[marlin035]

Originally Posted by cgtech

An automotive-style battery load tester is not going to help you at all for batteries that run 11+ miles. That type of tester is only powerful enough to reveal a "totally-shot" golf cart battery.

I am going to voltage test the individual batteries after charging to check for a bad cell, other than that does anybody have any suggestions?

We have about a twenty minute ride through town/neighborhood one way. On the way back it starts to lose power about a mile from the house. Twenty minute each way trip is mainly just cruising about 3/4 throttle.

Water level is good and topped off. Going to put a hydrometer in it tomorrow and see what it has to say....

[chloe]

Individual testing of each battery will be fine. It may not be the best test, for a 36 volt pack, but it will reveal problems. Hydro testing is a good idea too.
To do the test, charge the pack then let it set for 12 or more hours. Disconnect all the negative cables for individual testing.

[marlin035]

Update...

All batteries test out at 6.2-6.3v 2 hours after charger shuts off....

Also, I actually mapped out the last route and it was 10.5 miles round trip, stop and go traveling through residential areas, 5.25 mils each way, exact same route from the house to town. Flat ground, pavement. Constant running, probably 20-25 min run time each way.....barely make it back to the house.

Thoughts anybody?

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by marlin035

Update...

All batteries test out at 6.2-6.3v 2 hours after charger shuts off....

Also, I actually mapped out the last route and it was 10.5 miles round trip, stop and go traveling through residential areas, 5.25 mils each way, exact same route from the house to town. Flat ground, pavement. Constant running, probably 20-25 min run time each way.....barely make it back to the house.

Thoughts anybody?

Bad batteries. 6.2 = 70% charge capacity and being only 2 hourse after charge means they will continue to drop or settle for the next 12 hours to get a TRUE reading of their capacity. Recharge and let them sit 12-24hours, what's the standing voltage read then?

[cgtech]

Yeah, AFTER the long trip, test the individual voltages for SOC. That is a sure way to reveal the weakest link.