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Electric Club Car Electric DS, and Precedent golf cars |
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04-21-2018, 05:27 PM | #1 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 115
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question about wiring
I'm finally starting my project and find the reducer 12v wires were wired to the harness. I'm putting in a fuse block - so I cut both wires and connecting them to the + and - of the block. Question now is: do I have to run wires back to the harness? The original installer of the reducer and light kit hooked it up this way...I'm just a little confused as to; does the harness have power?
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04-21-2018, 09:04 PM | #2 |
MOD of all BS!
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 17,477
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Re: question about wiring
You need to trace it out and see what it is feeding, but if it was there, you would think it was feeding an accessory or something so I would wire it back in from one of the fuses in your new block. More importantly, you need to see what it is feeding so you correctly amp the fuse for the circuit.
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04-21-2018, 09:14 PM | #3 | |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 115
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Re: question about wiring
Quote:
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04-22-2018, 05:17 AM | #4 |
MOD of all BS!
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 17,477
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Re: question about wiring
Without tracing (or probing) the connections there is no way to be certain, but one would assume that it (the connection) was powering something and without it you will be missing something....
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04-22-2018, 06:10 PM | #5 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 115
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Re: question about wiring
so I wired the fuse block and sent a + and - wire back to the harness in the battery area where I had cut those 12v connections to power the fuse block. I took out the pull switch for the lights and replaced with an LED rocker switch powered by a positive from the fuse block and the 2 wires from the pull switch and a - from the fuse block. Added an additional LED center mount headlight with its own rocker LED switch powered from the fuse block single + wire from headlight and the negative from the fuse block. Next was the USB connections powered from the fuse block + and -. Next I wired a relay for back-up LED lights off the 48v reverse buzzer. Left that alone for now and wanting to close the instrument panel, I decided to install the ultimate Light Kit Upgrade on to find out the wire colors don't match (see another post). put the #3 & #4 batteries back in and tried the wiring I had worked on. Well after noticing the Tow switch was on (I put it in Run) and I finally got to see what I did. The lights were on - head lights were on all the time...the new center light worked perfectly off the switch. The USB was back lit and I sure it would be OK ---- So I can't figure out why the headlights are on all the time only off when I turned off the ignition switch. The Reverse buzzer no longer works. so I shut everything off for about 2 minutes... came back tried it again and NOTHING was working....I am SO FRUSTRATED.
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04-22-2018, 09:29 PM | #6 |
MOD of all BS!
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 17,477
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Re: question about wiring
Ugh! If nothing is working I would suspect something overheated and/or blew a fuse. You also could have lost the ground so double check your connections.
Not sure why the headlights are staying on as obviously the circuit is not being broke by the rocker switch as it should be so see if you transposed one of the wires that power the switch (backlight with the light circuit itself (?)) Something should be apparent in that area I would think. |
04-23-2018, 04:32 AM | #7 | |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 115
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Re: question about wiring
Quote:
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04-23-2018, 05:25 AM | #8 |
MOD of all BS!
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 17,477
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Re: question about wiring
Unless the wires are pulled too tight (no slack) they should not pull back off. You may need to pinch the female spade a little tighter so when you press it on it is extremely hard to remove. Another idea would be a multi-point crimp connection if they are all common.
And if you have too many switched connections, you could also install a 48v relay down stream and let the key switch activate it and then the relay close in the remaining components. Since I am not looking at what you are, these are just suggestions I can think of from past experiences. Others may have more ideas.... |
04-23-2018, 04:22 PM | #9 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Queensland Australia
Posts: 1,332
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Re: question about wiring
It is very difficult to fault-find a multi-point circuit from a distance, you really need to be on the spot to be able to trace wires etc. This is especially true when the system involves third-party wiring and not connections from a standard wiring diagram.
If you are not close to someone like David at Revolution Golf Cars then I suggest that you get it to an auto electrician (it's a 12V system that you are concerned with). He'll see what was being run from the original two wires and then check your wiring to make sure it is doing what you want. |
04-24-2018, 08:04 AM | #10 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 115
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Re: question about wiring
It is complicated... All I know is I have 3 different wires that have to be connected to the ignition switch so that when the switch is "on" these wires are activated. One of the issues I'm having is my connections are not holding very well and to solve this issue I will purchase a new (better) crimper. The other issue (the 3 different wires) I resolved this way... I bought a 6 terminal fuse block- ran a wire from the ignition to the main of the block - ran the three wires with spade connectors to the side of the block - put in (3) 20 amp fuses and Voila everything was working perfectly. 1EF25_AS01.jpg
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