2011 Precedent Very Very Strange Issue

[Sergio]

Yes, all three negative wires: 10ga black/yellow connector and two negatives from converter will connect to the same bus-bar.

As I mentioned earlier, You cannot use any other two batteries, the 12v negative needs to be the same voltage reference as the pack negative.

There are existing diodes inside the OEM harness that will cause problems if you try to move that connection to any other two batteries.

You don't need a load tester, just measure the voltages of each individual battery using the 20v DC scale on your meter.

You must have other wiring in place that is causing that issue, like something wired to the Solenoid.


Are those two wires for the accessories going straight from the batteries to the dash and only connected to the head lights and dash switch?

[ThreeCW]

Originally Posted by Z7What

My meter doesnt read decimals, only whole numbers. After the very first charge i check the battery pack and it read 51V. I then checked each battery and if i remember correctly 3 batteries read 8V and the other 3 read 9V.

For troubleshooting your cart you will want to upgrade your multimeter to one that displays 2 decimal points. It doesn't need to be an expensive meter to accurately measure voltage ... you should be able to find something that is fit for purpose for around $20. You could also buy a Fluke starting at $100 but only if you want to treat yourself ... I'm sure a voltage reading from the Fluke and the $20 meter would be much the same.

[Sergio]

It looks like I missed the post that ThreeCW commented on above...

I do not have brake lights, only running lights which are only on when the switch is turned out

How are you controlling the running lights from the key switch?

Do you have a 48v relay connected to the key switch somewhere?

The problem you describe can also be caused by the main Solenoid being activated out of sequence or something else being connected to the Controller side of the Solenoid (B+).

[Z7What]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Yes, all three negative wires: 10ga black/yellow connector and two negatives from converter will connect to the same bus-bar.

As I mentioned earlier, You cannot use any other two batteries, the 12v negative needs to be the same voltage reference as the pack negative.

There are existing diodes inside the OEM harness that will cause problems if you try to move that connection to any other two batteries.

You don't need a load tester, just measure the voltages of each individual battery using the 20v DC scale on your meter.

You must have other wiring in place that is causing that issue, like something wired to the Solenoid.

Are those two wires for the accessories going straight from the batteries to the dash and only connected to the head lights and dash switch?

The meter is have is a Fluke, I’ll ask a neigbor to see if they have one that reads decimals.

The only wiring that isnt 100% OEM is the light kit harness.

What two accessory wires are you referring too? The light harness has plenty of unused wires and plugs because I don’t have the blinker, horn, it brake light kit. So basically the only positive and negative on the harness goes to the batteries, from there there is a switch and 2 headlights and 2 taillights. That’s it, it doesn’t tie into any other wiring on the cart.

Wayne

[Z7What]

Originally Posted by Sergio

It looks like I missed the post that ThreeCW commented on above...

How are you controlling the running lights from the key switch?

Do you have a 48v relay connected to the key switch somewhere?

The problem you describe can also be caused by the main Solenoid being activated out of sequence or something else being connected to the Controller side of the Solenoid (B+).

The running lights and headlights are turned on by a stand alone switch that was added when the light harness was added, it has no relay.

I have not crawled under the cart to look at the controller or solenoid. I will do that today.

Wayne

[Z7What]

So I just looked at the controller and solenoid. Everything is factory wires. No additional wires at all near the controller or solenoid. I also reset the OBC, once reset I plugged the cart into the charger. When I did, the battery light illuminated for a second then went back off. If this normal?

Wayne

[Z7What]

A little update....

Although my reducer came in today I didn’t have time to install it and all the other electrical components I want to wire before leave for a hunting trip tomorrow.

So in order to allow my wife run the cart this weekend while I’m gone I hooked the lights up to a spare 12V 9ah battery I had laying around. The carts worked 100% as it should!

So although it doesn’t explain why I was having the issue, I know there is nothing wrong with the actual cart.

Wayne

[Z7What]

Well guys, the shop I bought the cart from sent me a new speed sensor and magnet. He nor I understand how the headlights affected the original speed sensor but ever since installing the new magnet and sensor I no longer have issue with the cart going slow while the lights are one.

Wayne

[Z7What]

Over this past week/weekend i installed my lift, wheels, tires, swapped out all the 6awg cables to #1 welding cables. While doing the rewiring i moved the ground from the headlight harness back to the black wire with the yellow bullet style terminal so that the OBC would measure the amount of power the lights are pulling. Ive been having it hooked up directly to the battery. Saturday night my son and i went for a cruise and had no issues at all. Last night my son, wife and i went for a cruise and sure enough the cart went back to 8MPH with the lights off.

Ive been holding off installing the voltage reducer until i get the dash, stereo, speakers and all the other electrical stuff i want to install but at this point i think i just need to install it at least temporary to avoid this issue. Regardless, i wish someone could explain to me why this is happening.

Wayne

[Sergio]

The Solenoid is another component that can cause the cart to run at 50% power (limp mode) if the contacts are getting stuck (welded) and not releasing completely when powered off.