36 volt ez go/ curtis controller wont move

[JohnnieB]

Maybe. Haven't verified the wiring to/from the pedal box yet.

There is the in-line connector in the cable going to the pedal box that gets corroded and crosstalk happens, causing all sorts of throttle issues.

The sole purpose of that connector is to make the cart easier to assemble at the factory and using individual solder joints or butt-splices eliminates those issues.

The attached drawing has that connector circled in red.

If the throttle voltage isn't correct after that connector is eliminated, then the controller is bad.

If the controller is bad, replace it with an Alltrax SR48400 (or larger) user programmable controller and upgrade to at lest a 200A solenoid.

[chazdo2]

Pin 1 of the three spades has the pack voltage switched to it every time. pins 2 and three or black and white leads have good continuity to the ITS and the plunger goes in and out without restriction. The in line connector was removed and the wires soldered by the previous guy who worked on it. good continuity to the studs on the ITS from the black and white wires on pins 2 and 3. does this mean the controller is bad?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by chazdo2

Pin 1 of the three spades has the pack voltage switched to it every time. pins 2 and three or black and white leads have good continuity to the ITS and the plunger goes in and out without restriction. The in line connector was removed and the wires soldered by the previous guy who worked on it. good continuity to the studs on the ITS from the black and white wires on pins 2 and 3. does this mean the controller is bad?

either controller or ITS sensor.

[chazdo2]

I had a new spare ITS with the same problem. Could I dummy in an potentiometer from 50 to 44k ohms to test the controller? What I read in the manual you sent me is the controller runs from a stop about 50 ohms to full throttle 4400 ohms. I may be missing something but wouldnt that prove the controller is bad? Another thing I am missing is the ITS if you measure resistance between the two posts on it is around 30 meg ohms. When you move the pedal the resistance changes slightly but goes back to the 30 meg ohms. ( digital meter) Is this ITS and inductance device? I just dont understand how this device is working

[JohnnieB]

The 1205 controller has to be factory programmed to a specific throttle type. The one you have ought to be programmed for an EZGO ITS type and that is the only throttle type it will work with, so trying to fake it out with a potentiometer won't prove or disprove anything.

While named an Inductive Throttle System (ITS), the ITS sensor is actually a proximity detector and is roughly 1/3 of a 3 part system, the other 2 parts (Power source and pedal position decoder) being inside the controller. Therefore the ITS voltages are controller specific.

Also, the ITS sensor can be fed from a constant voltage source (Curtis) or a constant current source (Alltrax), so the ITS voltage increases as pedal is pushed (Curtis) and decreases as pedal is pushed for others (Alltrax).

Attached is a schematic of an ITS sensor and a copy of the patent, which contains theory of operation,if you can decipher it.

I also attached a photo of an ITS sensor showing a crack that had formed in the potting compound. Moisture (humidity) can get into the sensor via a hairline crack and if it gets on the circuit board, the sensor can do some very strange things.

[mgray70]

What is the voltage between the black wire and B- after the solenoid clicks? Not exactly sure what the 1205 is suppose to be, but the 1204 is around 14 volts. Johnnie may know what it suppose to be. That will tell you if the controller is sending the correct voltage to the ITS. It has to receive the correct voltage on the black wire before it can send it back on the white wire.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

[chazdo2]

I dummied in the 0 to 5k ohms with a potentiometer and the cart worked. I did this prior to reading the last two posts. Thanks again for the tech update. I guess all this proved was the controller isnt bad just the wrong one!!! I saw a few new controllers on Amazon for 200 bucks? Are these junk or is that a price alternative to shelling out 600 bucks?

[chazdo2]

Really appreciate all the time you guys have spent helping me!! ! have a much better understanding of whats going on now!!

[mgray70]

Originally Posted by chazdo2

I dummied in the 0 to 5k ohms with a potentiometer and the cart worked. I did this prior to reading the last two posts. Thanks again for the tech update. I guess all this proved was the controller isnt bad just the wrong one!!! I saw a few new controllers on Amazon for 200 bucks? Are these junk or is that a price alternative to shelling out 600 bucks?

Ultimately the Alltrax is the best worry free controller, as it has a 2 year warranty and great customer service. If you go with the Chinese knock off Curtis, go with the higher amp ones (500). I've had decent luck with those. However if they don't program it for you, you'll need a programmer to do that. The Alltrax you can program yourself with a Windows based PC and a printer cable.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

[chazdo2]

wow I like that self program perk!!! I will pass that on to the cart dealer to whom all this work is being passed on to me!! You guys are the best!!!!!!!!