|
Electric Club Car Electric DS, and Precedent golf cars |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
07-17-2015, 09:53 AM | #31 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Hampton, GA
Posts: 467
|
Re: Wiring question 01 regen 2
I have been reading some I have a DS powerdrive plus, in the service supplement are some test, a thought I have is maybe the tow/run switch is not opening , and the controller is not coming out of interlock, just a guess
Test Procedure 6 - Tow/Run Switch 1. Using a multimeter set on 200 volts DC, connect black lead to negative post of battery No. 6 and connect red lead (with insulation probe) on black wire on two-pin connector on Tow/Run switch. (Connect the insulation probe to the black wire on the wire harness side of the two-pin connector). See WARNING on page 11-11. 2. With the Tow/Run switch in the RUN position, the reading should be approximately 48-50 volts. With the switch in the TOW position, the reading should be zero volts. 3. If the reading is not zero volts with the switch in the TOW position, replace the switch. 4. If the reading is zero volts with switch in the RUN position, check continuity of the two-pin connector and the red/ white 18 gauge wire from the large post of the solenoid to the two-pin connector at the Tow/Run switch. 5. If the continuity readings are correct, replace the Tow/Run switch. |
Today | |
Sponsored Links
__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum |
|
07-17-2015, 11:01 AM | #32 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Chestermere, Alberta - Canada
Posts: 1,146
|
Re: Wiring question 01 regen 2
Not to poke my nose in while you diagnose (Sergio is your best troubleshooter for your electronics) - but in the end, if you ultimately discover your controller is bad - and you plan to keep the cart; that would probably be the signal to either:
1) Update to the Regen 2 compatible "smart" XCT controller (If I'm reading correctly, Scottyb has just successfully done this), or... 2) Step-right-up to an IQ harness and a "smart-IQ" controller. Both options can (given what I've read from Scotty's threads) apparently adapt to your current throttle setup - meaning one less thing to change or replace. One day my cart will die too (13th yr,so far - doesn't owe me a thing) - and assuming I keep the cart; #2 is my only viable option (since I'm Regen 1)....or....the scrap heap. |
07-17-2015, 11:42 AM | #33 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 9,329
|
Re: Wiring question 01 regen 2
The service manual has tests for just about every individual part of the system, but sometimes You can test entire circuits by going to the last piece of it.
In the particular case of the Regen2, when We measured the voltage on controller pin #3 (green/white wire), that tested the entire circuit: Battery Pack->Solenoid->Tow/Run switch closed->Key Switch ON->Pedal Micro Switch Closed->Controller input signal We also manually powered the rest of the system by jumping the OBC (Red to Blue), so the Controller should have provided the negative to activate the main solenoid. I also just learned from Scottyb post today that the very new Alltrax XCT is working on Regen2, I don't know the details as far as if You have to remove the DB solenoid and do any re-wiring, but perhaps Scottyb would chime in with details. |
07-17-2015, 11:59 AM | #34 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Hampton, GA
Posts: 467
|
Re: Wiring question 01 regen 2
Don't take it that I was implying anything, I joined and since been reading a lot, found out my Girlfriends cart is an 03 IQ and what that means, to keep from messing hers up working I found a 99 DS with the powerdrive two , reading some Sergio's post I found that the DB solenoid has been bypassed , but that is something that folks do with good results. Not to hi-jack this thread with an intermittent problem I am having, it sounds like the OBC lock out circuit, So if I came across any way other than positive I do Apologize to Sergio.
Keith |
07-17-2015, 12:26 PM | #35 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 9,329
|
Re: Wiring question 01 regen 2
Hey Keith, not at all, I have personally learned a lot from reading posts here.
When I can I try to explain the "why" behind the "how" to do something. Sometimes folks are afraid to ask a question, but inevitably there are lots of people that are wondering the same thing but never ask, so everyone is welcome to contribute to any post. What I like about this site is you seldom can get away with BS, You get called on it pretty quickly. |
07-17-2015, 01:13 PM | #36 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Georgetown, South Carolina
Posts: 33
|
Re: Wiring question 01 regen 2
Looking at the wiring diagram does the green wire supply ground to the obc or what is its purpose.
And does the FnR reverse work off + power because I did not get any power on it. I am just trying to make sure I didnt miss or incorrectly diagnose. First time working on electrical. Thanks again for all this great help. |
07-17-2015, 02:35 PM | #37 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 9,329
|
Re: Wiring question 01 regen 2
If You are referring to the Green wire on the OBC, that is another odd ball thing about the Regen2 system.
The OBC provides +13v to the controller on that wire to tell the controller to switch from Dynamic brake to regen brake. The FNR works off +48v that is supplied by the OBC out of the Blue wire. As far as the FNR, We tested that back in post #4, the controller pin #5 (Blue wire) gets +48v when the FNR is on reverse. Since your OBC does not appear to be providing the +48v on the Blue wire, You need to leave a jumper in place to power the system while testing. The safest way to permanently by-pass the OBC lockout is to cut off the Blue wire at the OBC and run a 14ga wire from the harness side of the OBC blue wire to the Key switch Blue wire (cold side of key switch). That way the part of the system normally powered by the OBC would be powered by the key switch, which is controlled by the Tow/Run switch. Jumping the Red and Blue at the OBC is just for testing since the Red wire is always hot. |
07-17-2015, 09:32 PM | #38 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Georgetown, South Carolina
Posts: 33
|
Re: Wiring question 01 regen 2
Well Sergio....
I took care of the recently purchased controller. I came up with this great idea to try. I took a jumper and touched the ground on the controller with one and the other to the blue and white wire going to the silenoid. That will gkve groud.Well... boom and the sparks flashed. I also got a very good shock thru the coating of the wire. My hand lost feeling. No joke so if you are reading please don't do what I just did. It burnt a black spot on the cover from the inside. I think it most likely melted on the inside. I am officially finished with the regen 2 system. Thanks again for yours and everyone else who helped. But I am not giving up on fixing this cart. I just my take a little break and come back strong with the upgrades. |
07-18-2015, 06:15 AM | #39 |
Old Sky Soldier
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 3,881
|
Re: Wiring question 01 regen 2
Well one way to look at it. You couldn't fix, but no one else can either.
|
07-18-2015, 07:12 AM | #40 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Hampton, GA
Posts: 467
|
Re: Wiring question 01 regen 2
Plus when you upgrade the carts power circuit, you will have a 48V solenoid left over to use for a 48v to 12v converter, power it with the key , that is what I am planning for mine,...since the energy module has been bypassed
|
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Regen 1 / Regen 2 soleniod question | Electric Club Car | |||
Regen 2 Wiring Diagram HELP!!! | Electric Club Car | |||
99 CC 48V non regen motor wiring | Electric Club Car | |||
Regen II wiring | Electric Club Car | |||
2002 non regen wiring diagram needed | Electric Club Car |