2015 rxv controller no brake output

[sthreatt]

Originally Posted by brad2388

While i was waiting on the new brake to come i turned off the em brake checks in the controller. The cart ran fine like that until i reenabled it when the new brake got here.

I will start checking voltages here and see where im losing it at.

Do you have a wiring diagram with the curtis?

It's posted on this site as a pdf file. https://buggiesgonewild.com/showthre...Shooting+Guide I think the wiring diagram is on page 22 or 24. If you look at the "gang of five" sonic weld you'll see that the brake switch and throttle switch share the same connection. ( as does a few other things ) and that the brake switch is a direct feed to the motor brake all the time that the cart is switched on. If there is no power on the two pin plug at the motor brake with the switch on, then you can track it all the way back to the solenoid where it gets battery power. That take you through 2 sonic welds, and one of them is dropping out on you when brake is powered.

[brad2388]

I went to troubleshoot more. I was able to get voltage back there and get the brake to work. By the time i got it mounted back to the motor i lost it again. Ill troubleshoot it more maybe tomorrow. I did get the powerpoint so i can check pins and make sure its truely coming from the controller and where i am losing it.

Thanks for the pointers and ill report back one i repair the connections.

[sthreatt]

Originally Posted by brad2388

I went to troubleshoot more. I was able to get voltage back there and get the brake to work. By the time i got it mounted back to the motor i lost it again. Ill troubleshoot it more maybe tomorrow. I did get the powerpoint so i can check pins and make sure its truely coming from the controller and where i am losing it.

Thanks for the pointers and ill report back one i repair the connections.

It doesn't come from the controller. the brake gets it's power direct from the battery pack ( at the solenoid ) through a yellow wire to the keyswitch, leaves the keyswitch when you switch it on and goes to the gang of 5, then to the brake switch ( which is normally closed and connected ) and from there a white wire all the way to the brake plug. The other wire in the two pin plug at the motor brake goes to the controller to supply GROUND to activate the brake. The brake isnt powered by the controller, it is grounded by the controller.

[brad2388]

Originally Posted by sthreatt

It doesn't come from the controller. the brake gets it's power direct from the battery pack ( at the solenoid ) through a yellow wire to the keyswitch, leaves the keyswitch when you switch it on and goes to the gang of 5, then to the brake switch ( which is normally closed and connected ) and from there a white wire all the way to the brake plug. The other wire in the two pin plug at the motor brake goes to the controller to supply GROUND to activate the brake. The brake isnt powered by the controller, it is grounded by the controller.

Ah i see!
When it was working i only had around 36 volts. Pack voltage was 56.3 volts. (Leaf modules).

[sthreatt]

Originally Posted by brad2388

Ah i see!
When it was working i only had around 36 volts. Pack voltage was 56.3 volts. (Leaf modules).

Another symptom of bad sonic weld. Reduced voltage, and any load on it at all and you lose it altogether.

[brad2388]

ok i stripped the cart down and ohmed out the wiring. if i back probe the controller i have no output when i turn the switch on. i do however have battery voltage on the controller in the switch off position. but soon as i turn the switch on it goes away.
Looking at the diagram pin 5 comes from the controller to the can terminal under th cup holder and back to the brake.

[sthreatt]

Originally Posted by brad2388

ok i stripped the cart down and ohmed out the wiring. if i back probe the controller i have no output when i turn the switch on. i do however have battery voltage on the controller in the switch off position. but soon as i turn the switch on it goes away.
Looking at the diagram pin 5 comes from the controller to the can terminal under th cup holder and back to the brake.

The red loop on the can plug connects pin 4 and pin 6 to complete the ground circuit from the brake to controller . ( pin 5 ) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENsKFHzQ9S4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdfJoGRSfP4

[brad2388]

correct. i ohmed out both sides of that. to the motor brake and to the controller. both sides was good

[sthreatt]

There's one more sonic weld we've been overlooking. The white wire coming from the brake switch has a sonic weld that sends power on another white wire to pin 12 on the controller. Probe pin 12 and see if you have power there when you lose it on the motor brake plug. If you lose power to the brake plug and to pin 12 at the same time, then the problem is still back towards the brake switch.

[brad2388]

Originally Posted by sthreatt

There's one more sonic weld we've been overlooking. The white wire coming from the brake switch has a sonic weld that sends power on another white wire to pin 12 on the controller. Probe pin 12 and see if you have power there when you lose it on the motor brake plug. If you lose power to the brake plug and to pin 12 at the same time, then the problem is still back towards the brake switch.

Ok pin 12 has battery pack voltage on it when key is switched on. Im reading positive voltage at that pin to battery negative.