more B & Z electra king

[flashbk13]

Now onto the electrical (lights). There is something loose causing a short that blows the fuse. They were on just fine until I hit bumps in the pavement (testing the above), so they would go on and off, then eventually popped the fuse and went out, so some digging around underneath to see what bare wire(s) are under the cart. But it is coming along

[jethaulin]

its nice when it's a eazy fix

[flashbk13]

Now, it seems the the lights (blinkers, breaks head lights) are getting power even though the fuse has blown. In my last report, I stated they were shorting out from bumps while driving. I seem to be wrong. It actually seems to be with the motor solenoids in the back as this time, (after everything was dead from the blown/ removed fuse), as soon as I started to back up (no bumps), the lights came back on and would flicker as the solenoids engaged. Now the key still needs to be on, but they should all be dead due to no fuse. Also, the blinkers (that were working) now blink all of the lights with the key off, when on, they are normal. The break lights now also turn on the right front blinker light (so now I have a front break light!). I haven't touched any wiring since last week (all was correct when I left). So I will need to get under the back solenoid area to see what is wired there besides the batts and motor (there's a ground problem somewhere). Have a great weekend all, Rick

[flashbk13]

ok, are they to be grounded to the frame (like a car), or are both + and - both connected to batts? Now the + goes to the batts thru a sw then grounded to the frame.
It seems the short is being caused by part of the motor support mounts touching the frame as the rubber insulation has deteriorated. When I push down on the back of the cart, lights on, lift up slightly, off. We reversed the motor connections at the batts and the polarity on the meter is going the proper way (still need to replace those rubber insulators) and the fuse hasn't popped (yet).

[flashbk13]

Thank you for the input :) To be clear, the lights and accessories all should be connected with 2 wires each (separate + & - wires each item) to the 2 batts that give me the 12v so they are isolated from the metal car body/frame. Looking at this, everything is single wire + and grounded to the metal body like a motorcar. Now as this is actually an electric mini NEV car and not an actual golf cart, would it follow golf cart electrical logic and not motorcar logic? Do all golf carts (old resistor/ EM and new electronic control) follow the isolated method? Thank you for your help, Rick.