36 volt parcar wont turn off

[Tech Support]

One is front of vehicle, the other is 180 degrees. I see the + and - terminals are different too, but most likely two different people drew them and each battery is rotated different.

[rnr127]

So what should i do follow the full wire diagram?

[Tech Support]

As long as you connect the correct last B+ and B- to the right contactors, the placement of the batteries doesn't matter (other than in series you have to have 36 volts) Cables are usually long enough to go to either side.

[rnr127]

I understand it does not matter what direction the batteries go as long as they are wired correctly. If you look at the two diagrams they show a different place to terminate B+ and B- in each drawing. In figure 116 B+ goes to C2 and B- goes to F then in figure 117 B+ goes to R and B- goes to C1. I dont know which to follow.

[rnr127]

Any suggestions?

[Lochlin]

I am not familiar with your specific cart but I am pretty familiar with resistor carts. A glowing resistor is a tell-tale sign of a switch that is stuck closed somewhere and your current is being sent through the resistors when the cart isn’t moving. Rather than the current being dissipated by the moving the cart, the current is being dissipated via heat in the resistors.

Check all of your switches associated with driving (are there any micro-switches on that anywhere?) with the understanding that solenoids are switches. On that note, what type of solenoids did you use when you replaced? There are two types, intermittent duty that are used for cars and continuous duty that are used for carts. If you used one for cars then they probably already failed. Actually, I somewhat suspect this is the case as your cart apparently ran fine for a time after you initially put the new solenoids on. Here is the deal:

Car solenoids only close during the starting process. Once a car is running the solenoid opens back up to prevent starting current from “backing” into the ignition harness. Electric cart solenoids have to close and stay closed the entire time the cart is moving. As such, they have to be beefier than car ones. Car coils weld shut quick on carts, 20 mins sounds about right. Testing these is simple in your case. With the wires off the small terminals of the solenoid measure for continuity across the large terminals. If continuity is present then the solenoid is bad. No matter, you have bad switch somewhere.

[Raystar57]

Originally Posted by rnr127

I understand it does not matter what direction the batteries go as long as they are wired correctly. If you look at the two diagrams they show a different place to terminate B+ and B- in each drawing. In figure 116 B+ goes to C2 and B- goes to F then in figure 117 B+ goes to R and B- goes to C1. I dont know which to follow.

I see what you are saying. I would trust the schematic page 117 as to me it looks correct.
B+ going to the F/R contactor and B- going to C1. Neg to charge port is correct at that location also.

I think they mislabeled the 116 diagram.

[rnr127]

Thank you Raystar.