IQ install issues kit from Scotty B.

[Sick71]

Originally Posted by Tom47

If this is true and the diode is installed in the correct direction, then the coil must be energized. If it isn't, the solenoid coil is defective.

Is it energized? Did hear it click in when you push the throttle? Do you have voltage across the large solenoid terminals and then zero volts when you push the throttle?

With the solenoid on the bench, energize it and see if the large terminals close to zero ohms.

Do you have a diode on the large terminals also?

I have never had the solenoid energize except for the bench test.

Yes I have voltage across the large terminals at all times whether the pedal is pushed or not.

On the bench the large terminals close - 0 ohms. And yes diodes on both the large terminals and the solenoid coil terminals. See the pics I just posted.

Thanks for the help!

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by Sick71

Photos of diodes

The diodes are connected correctly.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by Sick71

I have never had the solenoid energize except for the bench test.

Yes I have voltage across the large terminals at all times whether the pedal is pushed or not. You will have voltage across them if the contact don't close. This is what your problem is.

On the bench the large terminals close - 0 ohms. And yes diodes on both the large terminals and the solenoid coil terminals. See the pics I just posted.

Thanks for the help!

You're welcome!

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by Sick71

Test results:
Red wire 53v and fuse is good
Green wire coming from pedal 0-4.7 vdc when pressing pedal
Blue wire from pedal 53v as soon as pedal is pressed. Do not know where the blue wire goes from here? Goes into the harness and I haven’t cut that apart yet. Pedal seems to be working correctly to me.

The center wire on the F/R switch is white and it has 53v as soon as key is turned on. And depending on the position of the switch the orange or purple wires get 53 v as well.

The + wire on the solenoid is yellow and has 53v on it as soon as the key is turned on. As does the - wire which is brown. I’m guessing the Alltrax does the grounding internally? Which I guess could be the charger interlock you mentioned. I do not have a Windows laptop as we are Apple people so I will have to see if I can borrow one from a friend to get into the programming.

You have 53 volts on both sides of the coil because the coil is a winding that lets voltage pass like any other wire. When pack negative is applied it energizes. What Scottyb says about the charger interlock makes sense. Whatever the cause, you are not getting the negative to the coil from the controller.

[Sick71]

Exactly what I’m thinking. My guess is the ALLTRAX grounds the circuit much like GM does with their CPU in cars and that isn’t happening. I just don’t know WHY!
I tempted to use a jumper and ground the solenoid myself and see if it will at least turn the wheels then, but I don’t want to F anything up either.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by Sick71

Exactly what I’m thinking. My guess is the ALLTRAX grounds the circuit much like GM does with their CPU in cars and that isn’t happening. I just don’t know WHY!
I tempted to use a jumper and ground the solenoid myself and see if it will at least turn the wheels then, but I don’t want to F anything up either.

Depending on which Alltrax you have, various inputs must be made before it will permit the solenoid to operate. One or more of those inputs is not happening.

Jumping the pack negative to the solenoid will not hurt anything, but will not fix the problem either. You could disconnect the wire coming from the Alltrax just in case before you jumper it.

If I could see your wiring diagram, I'd be more help.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by Tom47

Depending on which Alltrax you have, various inputs must be made before it will permit the solenoid to operate. One or more of those inputs is not happening.

Jumping the pack negative to the solenoid will not hurt anything, but will not fix the problem either. You could disconnect the wire coming from the Alltrax just in case before you jumper it.

If I could see your wiring diagram, I'd be more help.

Any modification to the wire harness will void any warranty on this kit.
Please return the controller to me now to keep your warranty intact. Do not cut anything apart as you suggested or test any further. I'm sure this is a programming problem. I will check the programming. Email me if you need a return label for the controller. I apologize for the inconvenience this has caused.

[Sick71]

Ok Scotty will do. That is why I haven’t done anything more. Didn’t want to void any warranty.
Look for an email

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by Sick71

Ok Scotty will do. That is why I haven’t done anything more. Didn’t want to void any warranty.
Look for an email

I will thank you - I think this will be a simple fix on our end. If you want to send the wiring harness as well we will give that a look over as well. Thank you and again I'm sorry it didn't work right out of the box for you.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Any modification to the wire harness will void any warranty on this kit.
Please return the controller to me now to keep your warranty intact. Do not cut anything apart as you suggested or test any further. I'm sure this is a programming problem. I will check the programming. Email me if you need a return label for the controller. I apologize for the inconvenience this has caused.

Scottyb,

Thanks for staying on top of this in spite of your fire problems. It has to be pretty nerve wracking.

I pray everything works out good for you.

Tom