smoking 93 gas carryall I

[sandhopper]

I have a 93 club car carryall I stock non lifted rear with 1" front lift, it smokes some. I have been reading alot about what it could be and before I jump in to tear down I need to make sure I don't have too much oil in the engine. The snuber is missing for the front mount so would that cause the dip stick to have a bad reading the tang is sitting on the frame in the down possition. So a couple of questions , how to get the new snuber on there ? and how much oil should this take if I do an oil change FE290 engine

[CP241]

1.2 qts with filter. But this may vary some depending on how much you get out when it drains... better to warm up the engine for 10 minutes before you drain it.

Replacing the snubber on a 93 sucks. The newer ones have 2 bolts holding the snubber stem in where it mounts so it's a 5 minute thing. The older ones... suck.

If it's a 93 and runs good but smokes, it's most likely the rings. It's almost 30 years old... chances are it's time for a rebuild. I'd replace the snubber while you have the engine out, it's much easier to unbolt the engine cradle and stick the snubber in than fight it.

I've also got a 93 carryall, with zero compression. I'll be rebuilding that here as soon as I get a couple ezgo workhorses out of the way first... maybe I'll take a bunch of pictures and do a detailed write up along the way. It's really an easy motor to rebuild. I can do one start to finish and be burning gas in a few hours as long as the cylinder is good and it doesnt have to go to a machine shop.

[sandhopper]

thanks for the reply . with a compression test I show 150 psi so I thought that would be good . If I drain the oil and not change filter and only put 1 quart back in would that be a good test ? I guess I could try and measure what comes out. I have not found any real info on how to change the snubber. I think I have to take the u bolts off the springs and try and slide it back. Not liking this idea and would love to make something to bolt on

[CP241]

Theres 2 kinds of rings on the motor. There are 2 compression rings. These are what provide compression and not much else. Then the bottom set of rings are oil control rings. These have zero impact on compression, but will affect smoke. These are the rings that also usually on on Honda 4wheelers and such. Theyll still run great, no problem. It smoke like a train and have perfect.compression.

Ideal compression should be around 165 on a FE290 so you're not far off. A basic rebuild would probably get you up and going good again and fix the smoke.

I'd absolutely recommend draining the oil and filling with the correct amount first. Just be prepared for the worst (which still isn't necessarily bad)

[sandhopper]

thanks for the replys , I know that I will have to rebuild this thing, just don't want to admit it . I also got a mod to make the sunbber replacement easier hope I can post a picture , but it shows to cut the top plate after drilling some holes

[CP241]

Search around on the forums. I think I remember seeing something where you could cut something and replace it easier. But I cant remember what.

Another member here has had good luck wrapping heater hose around it instead of a snubber, but I've never tried it myself.

Theres some different solutions around here if you search around. All the older ones I've had, I've had to rebuild the motors anyway so I just stuck a new snubber in while the motor was out. I'll do the same on this 93 carryall I have now.

[CP241]

And really the top plate doesnt have to be aligned exactly. All it does is keep the motor mount from pivoting too high. So if you did cut it off, as long as something is on top to keep it from moving up it'll be fine. Precise placement is not critical

[sandhopper]

Thanks again for the replys. If I have to do the rings should I pull the engine out or just do it in the cart ? How much trouble is it to pull the engine , Belt and a few wires and cables ?

[CP241]

You will have to pull the engine. It's pretty easy. Disconnect the fuel line, 3 wires from the starter/generator, and the 2 belts. Theres a cable from governor to carb and one from the pedal to the governor. Then there's 4 bolts under the motor, those can be kinda tricky unless you've got rubber arms because you have to hold a wrench on the nut on top but it's not bad. There's one nut in the middle of the rear end going into a stud on the back of the motor on the driver's side, you can get to that one easy enough. Then remove the driven clutch to get to the one on the passenger side.

Carryall is easy to pull the motor because it's wide open. Shouldn't take more than about 20-30 minutes to pull it out at the most

[sandhopper]

How does the clutch come off ?