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Old 11-18-2012, 06:37 PM   #21
tradermark
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Default Re: Drive Clutch Question

Jlhog:
Like you, I've been trying all sorts of things with my clutches (drive & driven) to try and get more power outta my cart. I had a spare drive clutch that looks almost new so l put it on the cart yesterday. It helped, but only minimally. Nothing I'd done so far with the clutches and/or belt seemed to help much at all.

However, today I FINALLY found the problem causing my low power. I wont hijack this thread, I'll start a new one. Take a look, it may help you too.



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Old 11-18-2012, 06:40 PM   #22
jlhog
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Default Re: Drive Clutch Question

Hijack it please or give me a link to what fixed your problem
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Old 11-18-2012, 07:29 PM   #23
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Default Re: Drive Clutch Question

Yes- that pic looks just like my comet duster clutch. It has a plastic dust shield just like the one in the pic.
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Old 11-18-2012, 07:31 PM   #24
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Default Re: Drive Clutch Question

Sweet, That is the cheapest replacement I have found so far. I was worried the dust cover would not fit as there is not a lot of room there.
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:24 PM   #25
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Default Re: Drive Clutch Question

Keep in mind that I have a 1990 marathon with a 2 cycle 3pg engine. I can measure how far the dust cover sticks out from the alternator pulley if you need that measurement.
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:09 PM   #26
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Default Re: Drive Clutch Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Madman415 View Post
when your looking at the face of the clutch you'll see three sets of 10mm bolts that are in pairs. Just by looking at it, pick two of the bolts that are closer together, you want those two bolts in the holes counterclockwise to the next pair of bolts.

What you're doing is rotating the outter half of the clutch one position left which will take some of the tension off the spring inside. This allows for a higher RPM before the clutch engages. The result is having your engine in it's "torque curve" before trying to move and will help it climb better from a dead stop.

You don't have to remove the black cover or the center bolt that holds the clutch on. Only need to remove the 10mm bolts The clutch will want to turn clockwise when the bolts are out, you could either try to keep a "death grip" on it or just mark the position before removing the bolts. Its really not hard to do at all, it's harder to explain then the actual task.
will this cause the cart to snatch when first taking off?
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Old 11-23-2012, 07:36 PM   #27
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Default Re: Drive Clutch Question

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Originally Posted by BIGDADDYJC1 View Post
will this cause the cart to snatch when first taking off?
No, mine is adjusted like that for pulling. It takes off at a higher RPM and does so very gently. It's real easy for me to creep along one inch at a time or I can just get on and floor it, either way it's very smooth. I also have replaced both clutches last year. Stock Drive and 28 degree Driven. Have not needed to mess with springs, plenty of power.
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Old 11-24-2012, 07:21 AM   #28
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Default Re: Drive Clutch Question

That is the same clutch my neighbor has on his wood hauler 2yrs. running.
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:53 AM   #29
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Default Re: Drive Clutch Question

My new drive clutch will be delivered today. I sure hope it fixes my issues. I will install it tonight or tomorrow and see how she runs...
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Old 11-30-2012, 07:58 AM   #30
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Default Re: Drive Clutch Question

Let us know how it works for you.
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