Help! Wiring reverse buzzer - 93 Marathon w/ HD Reversing Contactor

[GABulldawg]

Ugh. Ok, after an hour or so in the garage mounting the buzzer (12v), my reverse strobes (12v), a 48v relay, a fuse block, and a 48v-12v converter, and then wiring everything, I am STUMPED!

Sergio gave me the following advice o that is how I wired to start:

2 - 0.187" for the relay coil.
2 - 0.250" for the Normally Open contacts.
Connect one side of the relay coil to B-.
Connect the other side of the relay coil to the Reverse relay + connection
Use the Normally Open contacts to switch your 12v lights and buzzer ON/OFF.

Just think of the Relay Normally Open contacts as a plain ON/OFF switch.

I would wire the +12v output of your 48v to 12v converter to one of the Relay Contacts.
You would then run a wire from the other Relay contact to the +12v of Your lights and buzzer.


Now, perhaps I had the Reverse Relay + wrong? I had hooked into one of the spade terminals on the contactor (positive reverse side). Got nothing. I wired to one of the bars coming off the reversing contactor, it fired the relay and the reverse buzzer went off, but did so whether in reverse, neutral, or forward.

So, where am I going wrong? Need to get this done before wekend camping trip.

Thanks for the help.

[Sergio]

Make sure you have the correct contactor that gets energized when in reverse.

You can check the voltage at the small terminals or spade connectors of the contactor to verify it.

The positive side is the one where the diode cathode (end with a stripe) is connected to.

[GABulldawg]

Sergio, tried that. It seems that the small terminals may not have enough juice to "fire" the relay.

I am really hoping that ScottyB or someone with a hd reversing contactor weigh in. Someone has to have wired in a reverse buzzer with a reversing contactor.

I remain at a loss. A sweaty frustrated lose. Too much head scratching in the garage!!

[cgtech]

I have always hooked them straight to the reverse contactor "small wires". But, they were always compatable with full pack voltage.

[Sergio]

That 48v relay only needs 20mA to tun on, there is no way it is a load issue.

Did you put a diode parallel with the coil?

It does not need one in this case, but if you did put one in, it needs to be connected with the correct polarity (striped end towards positive coil terminal).

So does the reverse contactor engages or not?

[GABulldawg]

Originally Posted by Sergio

That 48v relay only needs 20mA to tun on, there is no way it is a load issue.

Did you put a diode parallel with the coil?

It does not need one in this case, but if you did put one in, it needs to be connected with the correct polarity (striped end towards positive coil terminal).

So does the reverse contactor engages or not?

There is a diode on each side of the contactor. Back terminals have diode, front terminals is the wiring. I splicedninto the wired side positive, per how diiode is oriented.

Wired just like you recommended. Not sure how you determine polarity of the relay. Or if that matters.

However, I a, now on hold as after further investigating tonight I think the issue may be the voltage reducer. It was amazon chinese cheap crap amd it is not showing any output, actually just showing a negative.

So, I think I a, going to bite the bullet and order ScottyBs reducer and try again next week. Going camping tomorrow, with no back up buzzer!

[GABulldawg]

Originally Posted by cgtech

I have always hooked them straight to the reverse contactor "small wires". But, they were always compatable with full pack voltage.

Since I am wiring strobe in together with the back up alarm I went 12 volt for all....