Will a bad resistor make my cart quit?

[imarealgolfr]

I have a 98 ezgo series cart. My cart just up and quit on me last night> I did the diagnostics from the sticky above and am kinda confused Everything checks out till I got to the controller side of the solenoid. Mine is reading 12 volts less than battery voltage. Then when I checked M- and B+(that is the one that has 2 wires on it right?). Any how I have nothing there, but if I put it on the one with one wire it does what it is spose to do, voltage goes up when the pedal is pressed, up to battery pack voltage. Any help would be appreciated. Hopefully I haven't confused anyone with my description

[scottyb]

Basically, no. A faulty resistor could not cause the cart not to run.
Does the solenoid click when you try to go?
If no, the problem may be in the solenoid activation circuit.

[imarealgolfr]

Yes the solenoid clicks
Scotty I got nothing at all when I checked the M- and B+
But when I put it on M- and B- it went from 0-38 volts when the pedal was depressed

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by imarealgolfr

Yes the solenoid clicks
Scotty I got nothing at all when I checked the M- and B+
But when I put it on M- and B- it went from 0-38 volts when the pedal was depressed

That's strange, it should go from 38-0 volts when the pedal is depressed???

[imarealgolfr]

Any ideas what my problem might be?

[scottyb]

No, never heard this one before?

[JohnnieB]

In the first post, there was some uncertainty about which terminal was which: "Then when I checked M- and B+(that is the one that has 2 wires on it right?)", so lets go back to the beginning and make sure the test leads are are on the correct terminals for the voltage measurements.

The schematic shows two cables on the B+ terminal, but a schematic diagram is not - repeat IS NOT - a wiring diagram. Schematic show electrical connections rather than physical connections, so wires can be drawn connecting to anyplace that is electrically the same, or at least electrically the same to the eye of the draftsman making the drawing. This artistic license is typically used to allow the drawing have fewer wires that cross on the drawing and for cosmetic reasons.

The terminal with two cables might be the A2 terminal since the B+ terminal is likely to have only one cable while the controller side terminal on the solenoid has two cables on it.

Attached is a drawing of a Curtis 1206 controller (Stock series controller) with the terminals identified.

Please verify that you are actually measuring between M- and B+ (Starts at 0V and goes up to 38V as pedal is pushed) and between M- and B- (Starts at 38V and goes down to 0V as pedal is pushed).

[imarealgolfr]

That is the drawing I went with JohnnieB I checked the post on the right for m- and the far left for B+
I will do some more checking tonight and post my findings

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by imarealgolfr

That is the drawing I went with JohnnieB I checked the post on the right for m- and the far left for B+
I will do some more checking tonight and post my findings

Far left is not B+ Far left is A2. However, not all series controllers have an A2 terminal, so if you controller only has three big terminals, B+ would appear to be the far left one.

In any case, B+ is the third form the right.

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I like measuring the voltage between M- and B- the best. All that is between those two terminals are the MOSFETs that passes amps to the motor. When the pedal is pushed just far enough to make the solenoid click, they aren't passing any amps, so the full pack voltage is dropped across them. When the pedal is on the floor, all available amps are being passed through them and no voltage is being dropped across them.

[imarealgolfr]

Ok I can't seem to get a pic of my controller to upload, but it only has three terminals. M- on the right,B- to the left and B+ to the left of that. My black test probe on m- and red one on b+ I got nothing. With black probe on m- and red probe on b- it reads -27.2 (which is what I get on the controller side of the solenoid) and when I press on the pedal it goes up to -38 volts. Now when I switch them to red on m- and black on b- it reads positive volts. I'm confused