Powerdrive 2 charger help!

Sergio · 05-27-2016, 01:45 PM

You said wires, did you mean relay tabs?

The resistance measurement is for the actual relay coil.

mgray70 · 05-27-2016, 02:13 PM

No, unplugged the wires and measured between the 2 small wires.

mgray70 · 05-27-2016, 02:15 PM

Should I measure between the pins on the relay?

mgray70 · 05-27-2016, 02:16 PM

I read clearer now. You said between the tabs on the relay. Duh

mgray70 · 05-27-2016, 03:27 PM

2.38 ohms across the relay. The voltage between the two wires fluctuates between 35 and 47 or so. I'm going to remove the heat shrink tomorrow from around the spades and see if anything looks broken. If that relay coil see that voltage it should click right? Charger works when you jump the A.C. Terminals. I have another relay that came out of a 36 volt charger. Will it work just to see if it is the new relay? With the A.C. Terminals bypassed the charger will not turn off correct?

Sergio · 05-29-2016, 09:50 AM

Don't use the 36v relay, it could be two much current for the OBC activation circuit.

The Powerdrive 2 will not stop charging with the Relay by-passed, you will need to manually unplug the AC cord when the pack gets up to 60v.

If that relay coil measurement was 2.38kΩ, the relay is probably good.

You can verify it by applying 48v to the relay coil:

Connect the White and the Blue wires back on the relay.
Disconnect the "Blue quick connector" on the DC cord.
Connect the relay side of the blue wire quick connector to the negative wire on the fuse.
Plug the DC cord on the cart, the relay should click.

If the relay is good, test the voltage suppression diode that connects across the relay coil.

Disconnect both the AC and DC plugs.
Disconnect both the Blue and the White wires from the relay coil.
Use the diode test setting on you meter to test between the Blue and White wires.
If Your meter does not have a diode test setting, use the Resistance setting on the meter.
Connect the probes to the Blue and White wires.
Reverse the probes and connect them to the Blue and White wires again.

You should get low resistance in one test and High Resistance/Open Line (OL) on the other test.

A bad voltage suppression diode (OL both ways) could have taken out the "Sense" wire transistor inside the new OBC.

mgray70 · 05-29-2016, 05:27 PM

Ok Sergio, I was honey doing all day yesterday and got back on this thing today. I had tried jumping the blue wire on the relay directly to the fused black wire before I read your post. No results. So I tried to verify relay operation taking it directly to the pack voltage and it operates just fine. So I tested the voltage again between the white and blue wire and it would fluctuate Between 36 and 42 volts or so, which I thought was odd, so I decided to test the voltage while the coil was trying to engage. It dropped to about 4 volts. I rechecked all connections and appear to be fine. So I ran a jumper from the pack negative to the blue wire on the relay and she clicks on unplugged the jumper and it cuts off, then all of a sudden it came back on and seems to be working fine. A local lawn mower shop was working on it for a lady and they had replaced the on-board computer, but then they got busy and asked me to finish it. I'm not as familiar with club cars with the OBC. What in the world could it have been? I don't like sending things back that magically fixed itself. Maybe it won't act up again!

05-27-2016, 01:45 PM	#11
Sergio Gone Wild Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 9,329	Re: Powerdrive 2 charger help! You said wires, did you mean relay tabs? The resistance measurement is for the actual relay coil.

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05-27-2016, 02:13 PM	#12
mgray70 Gone Wild Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Deep Run, NC Posts: 2,544	No, unplugged the wires and measured between the 2 small wires.

05-27-2016, 02:15 PM	#13
mgray70 Gone Wild Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Deep Run, NC Posts: 2,544	Should I measure between the pins on the relay?

05-27-2016, 02:16 PM	#14
mgray70 Gone Wild Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Deep Run, NC Posts: 2,544	I read clearer now. You said between the tabs on the relay. Duh

05-27-2016, 03:27 PM	#15
mgray70 Gone Wild Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Deep Run, NC Posts: 2,544	2.38 ohms across the relay. The voltage between the two wires fluctuates between 35 and 47 or so. I'm going to remove the heat shrink tomorrow from around the spades and see if anything looks broken. If that relay coil see that voltage it should click right? Charger works when you jump the A.C. Terminals. I have another relay that came out of a 36 volt charger. Will it work just to see if it is the new relay? With the A.C. Terminals bypassed the charger will not turn off correct?

05-29-2016, 05:27 PM	#17
mgray70 Gone Wild Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Deep Run, NC Posts: 2,544	Ok Sergio, I was honey doing all day yesterday and got back on this thing today. I had tried jumping the blue wire on the relay directly to the fused black wire before I read your post. No results. So I tried to verify relay operation taking it directly to the pack voltage and it operates just fine. So I tested the voltage again between the white and blue wire and it would fluctuate Between 36 and 42 volts or so, which I thought was odd, so I decided to test the voltage while the coil was trying to engage. It dropped to about 4 volts. I rechecked all connections and appear to be fine. So I ran a jumper from the pack negative to the blue wire on the relay and she clicks on unplugged the jumper and it cuts off, then all of a sudden it came back on and seems to be working fine. A local lawn mower shop was working on it for a lady and they had replaced the on-board computer, but then they got busy and asked me to finish it. I'm not as familiar with club cars with the OBC. What in the world could it have been? I don't like sending things back that magically fixed itself. Maybe it won't act up again!