36 volt 1995 ezgo controller help

[bernha76]

Throttle position sensor. Replaced the controller. Car ran. Flipped run/tow switch. Blew controller.

[lockman1]

Originally Posted by scottyb

I've asked this thread be moved to the Ezgo Electric section.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by bernha76

Throttle position sensor. Replaced the controller. Car ran. Flipped run/tow switch. Blew controller.

What? just now? You replaced control & cart ran. Then you cycled run/tow switch and the controller went up in smoke?

[bernha76]

Ok controller was changed. Waited about an hour turned the key on not the run/tow then hit accelerator and toasted the controller.

[scottyb]

Ouch. I could be the F1 and F2 wires are shorted out to the frame where they go behind the batteries. Or the motor could have a short? Check the F wires for abrasion as shown below.
Remove the 4 wires from the motor - take care NOT to spin the studs.
With an ohm Ω meter check for continuity between studs. You should have continuity between F1 and F2 and between A1 and A2 but not between any F and any A terminals.
Note early DCS your studs may be marked S1&2 and A1&2.

[bernha76]

We have replaced the wires off the motor. New motor. New controller.

I uploaded 3 pictures. The red wire comes off the solenoid back up towards the forward reverse switch but was not connected.

Is there supposed to be a jumper wire on top of the forward reverse switch?

We have continunity between a1-a2 and between s1-s2 but not between any a and s

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by bernha76

......................
1. The red wire comes off the solenoid back up towards the forward reverse switch but was not connected.

2. Is there supposed to be a jumper wire on top of the forward reverse switch?

.....................

1. The loose Red wire in first picture has large ring terminal on it, so it is most likely one of the three red wires attached to the battery side large terminal on the solenoid. Sere attached schematic.

2. Yes. See attached schematic and attached picture of early style DCS F/R switch

[scottyb]

Note the little red wire with the large ring terminals goes on the battery side of the solenoid not the controller side.... this gives a constant 36v(+) connection for the control. I don't know how you are running without it. I suspect something else is not wired per diagram. Given the history here I would print the diagram above and trace it out wire by wire against your cart considering the high cost of controllers these days.