Club Car Precedent stuttering and won't move?

[Sergio]

The "relay status" light turning ON means the Controller has activated its internal circuit that completes the Solenoid connection to controller B-.

Either the Controller internal FET has failed or you have a bad connection on the blue/white wire between the controller pin #12 and the Solenoid small post.

You previously said You verified you have +48v on the light blue wire on the Solenoid small post, no diode between the small posts and 0v between the small posts with the pedal pressed right?

If that is the case, the only other possibility (other than a failed controller) is that there is a "sonic weld" on the blue/white wire between the controller and Solenoid that could have failed.

You can either:

Measure the voltage between controller pin #12 (negative probe) and pack positive (positive probe) to see if you get +48v with pedal pressed.

Unplug the controller 16-pin connector and check the resistance between Controller pin #12 and Solenoid small post where the blue/white wire is connected to make sure You get 0Ω.

[spuzio]

Originally Posted by Sergio

The "relay status" light turning ON means the Controller has activated its internal circuit that completes the Solenoid connection to controller B-.

Either the Controller internal FET has failed or you have a bad connection on the blue/white wire between the controller pin #12 and the Solenoid small post.

You previously said You verified you have +48v on the light blue wire on the Solenoid small post, no diode between the small posts and 0v between the small posts with the pedal pressed right?

If that is the case, the only other possibility (other than a failed controller) is that there is a "sonic weld" on the blue/white wire between the controller and Solenoid that could have failed.

You can either:

Measure the voltage between controller pin #12 (negative probe) and pack positive (positive probe) to see if you get +48v with pedal pressed.

Unplug the controller 16-pin connector and check the resistance between Controller pin #12 and Solenoid small post where the blue/white wire is connected to make sure You get 0Ω.

Across the two small posts i have 0v when i press the throttle or not. No Diode.

I also measured from either small post to pack negative i get 48v.

I measured across pin 12 while plugged in to the controller to the pack positive, and i show 48v BOTH with petal pressed and not.

[Sergio]

Can You check that again, Controller pin #12 is the blue/white wire.

You should not have +48v between there and the pack positive battery post unless the pedal was pressed (monitor screen Footswitch input=ON).

If You do get +48v there while the pedal is pressed, then You should have the same reading at the other end of the blue/white wire connected to the solenoid small post unless the wire is broken or the sonic weld has failed.

[spuzio]

Pin 12 is the solid blue wire not the blue/white. *** I WAS WRONG *** THAT IS PIN 16 or 8... ie not PIN 12.

Do you want me to measure blue/white to battery pack positive with throttle depressed? No idea what pin that is as it is in the middle

[Sergio]

That is a 16-pin connector, 8 pins in each side, yes the #12 blue/white wire is near the middle, black/white is #13 and #11 is open (no wire).

When the monitor screen Relay Status=ON, You should get 48v from that pin to pack positive, if You do not, the Controller activation has failed.

[spuzio]

Thank you for your patience.

I measured the blue/white wire (pin 12) to pack NEGATIVE and it shows 48v again both when petal is pressed or not. It shows 0v to pack positive.

[Sergio]

You will get +48v to pack negative since You are measuring the voltage through the solenoid coil, that is normal and indicates the blue/white wire is not broken and the solenoid coil is good.

When the pedal is down and the monitor indicates Relay Status=ON, the Controller connects that pin to negative so You should get 48v when measured from the pack positive battery post.

It does look like the Controller Solenoid activation circuit has failed.

[spuzio]

Thank you for all your help! I returned the controller under warranty, and they found the issue.

[ClubCarDude]

I am having the exact same issues at OP with exact same sysmptoms except the controller is doing this upon first installation. How rare is it to have a brand new bad controller?

[ClubCarDude]

I had the same exact issue. CC precedent new XCT400 install and new SW180 solenoid. Stutters and wont move after install. Stuttering forward in reverse and stuttering reverse in forward. Low voltage and precharge errors from controller but everything was installed correctly and pack is 52v+.

My problem was the diode on the small posts of the solenoid. I removed it and the cart and controller work fine now. The large post solenoid is there still.

Just an FYI for future use if others have this issue.