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Old 05-02-2015, 02:10 PM   #1
nrstoker
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Default Testing a controller

I have a 2007 EZGO ST Sport 2+2.

I bought it used and it ran great for the first six months.

My wife and I then smelled a burning wire type smell after coming back up the trail from the lake. We never smelled it going down – just when under load coming back up.

We had a 6 month warranty and took it in. They told us that the Forward and Reverse switch was failing and that the charger blew up. They replaced these at no charge.

Then – a few months later it stopped working all together. Things got confusing then. First they said that the controller was the wrong controller and was over powering the vehicle. They said that the controller caused the second forward/reverse switch to fail as well. I had to pay about $600 to get that fixed. They also said the batteries had about 70% life in them.

Well we have failed again two months later.

I took the batteries out and took them to AutoZone. The tech there said they were good but one of the batteries has a soft spot and he suspected his tester was bad. These are 6 volt batteries. I then went to a battery store and they said that a tester could not test the batteries and that the only way to test was to check the voltage and specific gravity of each cell. We did that and all the batteries were about 6.3 volts and the specific gravity all registered good. Does this forum agree?

I am now thinking the controller is bad.

Is there some way to test a controller?

Any other ideas on what to do would be appreciated.
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File Type: jpg Controller.jpg (98.7 KB, 0 views)
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Old 05-02-2015, 02:53 PM   #2
scottyb
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Default Re: Testing a controller

Welcome to BGW
Can we get the make and model # from the controller? Also there may be a 400a or 350a (amp) designation on it.
The bigger control may indeed be allowing the cart to draw more amperage than that F&R can handle... A heavier duty unit is available.
I think the battery issue is separate from this no go situation. What make and model # charger and batteries do you have?
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Old 05-02-2015, 04:24 PM   #3
nrstoker
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Default Re: Testing a controller

I had to take the controller out to find the make and model. A label on top would be a nice design feature. Anyway it is a Curtis Model 1205-117. Voltage 24-36V Current 400A.

The batteries are Powertron P2000. I can't find anything on them- but again they tested good.

The charger is DPI Madjax Accusense.

Your help is greatly appreciate.
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Old 05-02-2015, 06:26 PM   #4
scottyb
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Default Re: Testing a controller

Sometimes, you can hold your cel phone below the control and take a pic of the label.
So 400a Control
It should have a HD F&R. Can you post a pic of the back side of the F&R where all the cables connect? Like to see if the terminals are heat discolored.
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Old 05-03-2015, 05:47 AM   #5
yurtle
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Default Re: Testing a controller

Most automotive stores can't really test a golf cart battery. Their load testers are designed to test cranking batteries, and not deep cycle batteries. Maybe see if you can find a buggy dealer with the appropriate tester.
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Old 05-03-2015, 08:14 AM   #6
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Default Re: Testing a controller

Quote:
Originally Posted by yurtle View Post
Most automotive stores can't really test a golf cart battery. Their load testers are designed to test cranking batteries, and not deep cycle batteries. Maybe see if you can find a buggy dealer with the appropriate tester.
Everybody who owns a golf cart has an appropriate battery tester. The cart puts a load on the pack each time we press the go pedal. Install an in dash digital battery meter and head up the nearest hill for a reading. These meters give a live reading.
A handheld multimeter can be connected to the pack to give same readings and if the reading is low the meter can be connected to each individual battery in the pack for one at a time testing.
It only takes one bad battery to kick the carts performance down significantly.
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Old 05-03-2015, 08:14 AM   #7
JohnnieB
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Default Re: Testing a controller

Quote:
Originally Posted by nrstoker View Post
....................
1. The batteries are Powertron P2000. I can't find anything on them- but again they tested good.

2. The charger is DPI Madjax Accusense.....................
1. http://www.safe-start.com/vendors/po...olf-batteries/
The P2000 is a 6V-210AH deep cycle battery. A standard 36V pack uses 6V-225AH batteries, so it is a bit undersized for the application.

2. Except for the MadJax labeling adding about $150.00 to the nominal price, the DPI Accusense charger is one of the best chargers on the market.
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Old 05-04-2015, 05:25 PM   #8
nrstoker
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Default Re: Testing a controller

This forum is great. Wonderful helpful folks.

You asked for some photos of the FR switch. Here you go.

they don't look bad to this un-trained eye.

Does anybody test these things?

Last edited by nrstoker; 05-04-2015 at 05:25 PM.. Reason: Add Photo
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Old 05-04-2015, 05:56 PM   #9
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Default Re: Testing a controller

Here are the photos
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20150504_123943.jpg (131.4 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg 20150504_123949.jpg (140.2 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg 20150504_124026.jpg (157.0 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg 20150504_124050.jpg (127.4 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg 20150504_124113.jpg (135.2 KB, 0 views)
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Old 05-04-2015, 06:08 PM   #10
gornoman
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Default Re: Testing a controller

You're in good hands here sir. These guys can rewire the Millenium Falcon on their iPhones. BTW, those crimps look like they were made with a rock. Your cart needs new cables, nice handmade ones, from a site sponsor perhaps.
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