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Old 08-20-2016, 11:00 AM   #21
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Default Re: 36v EZGO Electric PDS F/R issues

forgot to add the battery pack is tapped for the lights
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Old 08-20-2016, 12:09 PM   #22
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Default Re: 36v EZGO Electric PDS F/R issues

I'm getting 38v to both side on the solenoid just no clicks
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Old 08-20-2016, 12:36 PM   #23
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Default Re: 36v EZGO Electric PDS F/R issues

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The only 12 Accessories I have is lights and turn signals that have been on the cart for years. I did have to put a new light switch in a week back but everything worked after install. You are right on the plug it was number 5. Let me re cap all that happened yesterday. So after installing another solenoid ( borrowed off another cart I have) the solenoid doesn't click at all but I still had reverse. I checked everything under the sun with my meter and everything seemed fine. But the card would sometimes go in reverse when you hit the gas and sometimes it wouldn't finally getting to where it wouldn't do anything. The card has a backup light that still turns on when put in reverse but no movement . I got to looking at the 10 prone plug and seen where at some point it had gotten hot and looked a little burnt. So I cut it off and wired another one and have the same results. No movement just reverse light? I still don't know why I am getting 18v to the solenoid when the neg. cable is unhooked at the battery?
The easy one first. The batteries are not completely isolated from the cart's frame and you are using a high impedance DVM to measure voltages with.

Connect your DVM's Negative test lead to the cart's frame and touch the Positive test lead to any of the battery tops or terminals and you will most likely read a voltage. This is due to the input impedance of the DVM being relatively high compared to the impedance of the insulation on the cables and wires and the insulation of the batteries themselves.

This phenomenon has often sent technicians and engineers on wild goose chases, but is fairly easy to eliminate by placing a 10kΩ (or less) resistor between the DVM's test leads. If it is a phantom voltage, it will go away when loaded down with 10kΩ or less, but if it continues to exist, it is a real voltage and the source must be found.

I first ran into the troubleshooting nightmares caused by phantom voltages when I switched from an analog VOM (20kΩ/volt input impedance - Simpson 260) to a FET input VOM (10MΩ imput impedance - Triplett 310-FET).

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What is the backup light wired into? If it is tapped into the Orange wire going to Pin-2 from the F/R switch, that may be the reason the cart goes into reverse when Pin-6 is disconnected.

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The cart appears to have multiple electrical problems, so I'd disconnect every wire from the battery pack not directly used to feed the controller and motor. Then troubleshoot the drive system only.
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Old 08-20-2016, 12:40 PM   #24
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Default Re: 36v EZGO Electric PDS F/R issues

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I'm getting 38v to both side on the solenoid just no clicks
The 38V reading on the Blue wire is the voltage on the Yellow wire feeding through the solenoid's coil.

That is a normal condition when the controls are set for driving the cart, but the pedal has not been pushed. (Pedal switch tells the controller to connect the blue wire to B-)
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Old 08-20-2016, 12:40 PM   #25
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Default Re: 36v EZGO Electric PDS F/R issues

This phenomenon has often sent technicians and engineers on wild goose chases, but is fairly easy to eliminate by placing a 10kΩ (or less) resistor between the DVM's test leads. If it is a phantom voltage, it will go away when loaded down with 10kΩ or less, but if it continues to exist, it is a real voltage and the source must be found.

Thank you Johnnie B
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Old 08-20-2016, 01:10 PM   #26
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Default Re: 36v EZGO Electric PDS F/R issues

Sorry for the million questions I used to consider my self a pretty good mechanic :). Everything not factory wiring has been removed. As far as the solenoid I only get the volts when the cart is in reverse nothing reads in forward and nothing changes when the petal is pressed.
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Old 08-20-2016, 01:35 PM   #27
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Default Re: 36v EZGO Electric PDS F/R issues

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This phenomenon has often sent technicians and engineers on wild goose chases, but is fairly easy to eliminate by placing a 10kΩ (or less) resistor between the DVM's test leads. If it is a phantom voltage, it will go away when loaded down with 10kΩ or less, but if it continues to exist, it is a real voltage and the source must be found.

Thank you Johnnie B
The BMET (Biomedical Equipment Technician) hopefuls that went through the troubleshooting course I taught at the USAF School of Healthcare Sciences, were intentionally sent on several wild goose chases caused by the relative impedance of the circuit under test vs the input impedance of the test equipment being used.

To attend the BMET school, you had to have aptitudes at the 90 percentile level in electronic and 85 percentile level in mechanics, so my students were very bright young men and women, but not many of them figured out what was happening on their own, I suspect not many cart owners are aware of it.
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Old 08-20-2016, 02:00 PM   #28
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Default Re: 36v EZGO Electric PDS F/R issues

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Sorry for the million questions I used to consider my self a pretty good mechanic :). Everything not factory wiring has been removed. As far as the solenoid I only get the volts when the cart is in reverse nothing reads in forward and nothing changes when the petal is pressed.
Electric carts are a different breed of cat from almost everything anybody has ever worked on.

A PDS is more or less a fly-by-wire system and getting the solenoid to click is a two step process.
First you have to get the controller to apply B+ on the yellow wire and then apply B- to the blue wire.

To get B+ on the yellow wire, the charger has to be unplugged from the cart, Run/Tow in Run, Keyswitch ON, and either F or R selected on the F/R switch. At that point (pedal not pressed) you should have B+ (Full battery pack voltage, 38.2V if fully charged) on the following jacks and pins.

J1 Pins 1, 3 (or Pin-2 if in Reverse), 4, 5, 6, 7 (coil feed-thru), 8, 9 and maybe 10 (Beeper feed-thru)

(J1 Pin 2 should be about 0V if F/R is in F or Pin-3 should be about 0V if F/R is in R.)

J3 Pins 1, 2, 3 & 4

J4 Pin-2 (Pin-1 should be zero volts and Pin 3 & 4 are the ITS voltage)

When you press the pedal, J4 Pin-1 should have B+ on it and J1 Pin-7 should drop to 0V (B-) and solenoid should click.
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Old 08-20-2016, 02:14 PM   #29
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Default Re: 36v EZGO Electric PDS F/R issues

Thanks I will try all of that tomorrow and post an update I'm honestly about over it for the day. Random fact if I put my positive lead on the stainless seat hinge and negative on the battery I get 20.5 Volts !
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Old 08-20-2016, 02:42 PM   #30
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Default Re: 36v EZGO Electric PDS F/R issues

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Thanks I will try all of that tomorrow and post an update I'm honestly about over it for the day. Random fact if I put my positive lead on the stainless seat hinge and negative on the battery I get 20.5 Volts !
Your gonna make the teacher mad
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