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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
01-26-2017, 10:46 AM | #1 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Kings Mountain, North Carolina
Posts: 247
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F&R switch?
I have a 2001 TXT that will sometimes go and sometimes not. My question, is there a way to check to see if it is going bad? I know sometimes a switch can be bypassed to check if it is bad but did not know if there is a way to check this switch. I don't want to change it if it is good but if it is bad, as soon as I can afford it I am going to get Scotty B's heavy duty reversing contactors.
Any help is greatly appreciated! |
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01-27-2017, 09:32 PM | #2 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Seneca South Carolina
Posts: 138
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Re: F&R switch?
if it goes sometimes and then wont sometimes try tighting the nut on the back side of the switch near the controller I believe its a 14mm or something in that area.
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01-27-2017, 09:47 PM | #3 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: FL
Posts: 1,067
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Re: F&R switch?
Well first check carefully all the cables going to the f/r switch. If you don't find any broken or melted cables, or any contacts that are ruined it probably is not the f/r switch. Have you checked things like your solenoid possibly dropping out, or your ITS sensor under the floor? Also are your batteries ok and how old are they. Also when it does go, does it suddenly cut out on you? I'm not saying it's your controller, but it is also possible. Need more info to continue
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01-31-2017, 06:14 AM | #4 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Kings Mountain, North Carolina
Posts: 247
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Re: F&R switch?
Ok, All nuts on F&R switch were tight, batteries are 1.5 years old, last summer I installed ScottyB's SR48500 + 400 solenoid.
When I depress the pedal the controller blinks green 4 times, does this whether it goes or not??? I wonder since this is a regular F&R switch and I am running a larger than stock engine and a larger than stock controller and solenoid, could I have damaged the switch to where it will sometimes work and sometimes not? |
01-31-2017, 06:59 AM | #5 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: fletcher,nc
Posts: 601
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Re: F&R switch?
when it fails, can you
check the voltage with a dvm? if you have no voltage coming through the switch then it is bad... 4 green flashes is good-i think-i dont remember off the top of my head what they indicate but it should be good... |
01-31-2017, 07:45 AM | #6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 21
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Re: F&R switch?
I have a very similar problem with a 2001 TXT. It sometimes does not "go". When it eventually does go, it "jerks" forward, then runs fine.
I just purchased some new F/R switches and will replace them this week. I will report back if it helps. |
01-31-2017, 08:48 AM | #7 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,417
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Re: F&R switch?
Intermittent problems can only be found when they are not working. Diagnosis will require a digital multi meter and the ability to make a few common tests. Go here & watch the short video if you need help with that. > http://www.cartsunlimited.net/troubleshooting-.html
If the control is blinking 4 times green (Ezgo ITS code) and then going solid green until the pedal is floored, then going orange when the pedal is to the floor, then the throttle signal is correct and the controller is working. Look to the high amperage delivery system. Listen for the solenoid click when you try to go in both directions. Test the solenoid high amperage flow by removing one end of the resistor & checking for voltage at both big posts each time it clicks... and battery cable side only when not clicked on. Visually inspect all 26 cable ends. Give each one a pull and twist test. You'd be surprised - often a bad end pulls out. F&R contact point failure is fairly common. The friction contacts are set in a plastic housing. If they get hot from any number of problems they tend to heat their plastic housing and sink into it - thus reducing the contact pressure and exasperating the problem. Often a visual check of the terminal studs will show that one stud got hot by a color change or even a tilted stud. Unfortunately there really is no repairing these units. See examples. |
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