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Old 08-01-2017, 07:24 PM   #1
JaxPilot
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Default Cable Crimping Critique - YQK-70

I'm ready to start trying to make my 2GA cables for the rebuild, and had had a couple of fits and starts. Bought a HF Hydraulic crimper, but none of the dies came even close to being able to crimp the EWCS 2GA welding cable and Heavy Duty Corrosion-Resistant Copper Lugs. After a little more research, I bought a YQK-70 crimper with the chrome dies. A few experiments later, I figured out that the 50MM die seems to be the ticket, although the 35MM should be the one. Here is the first successful crimp I accomplished, it has a tiny "wing", but not thick enough to pinch any cables. I figured out how to eliminate even that little bit.



I cut the connector in half, and here is a pic of the cable embedded in the lug half, which is right in the middle of the crimp. The other picture is of the very bottom portion of the lug sleeve, and the cable removed from it.

Does this appear to be crimping enough? Should I try to solder also (I suck at soldering), or just stick with what I have here?



this is from the very bottom edge of the crimp
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Old 08-02-2017, 10:46 AM   #2
bronsonj
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Default Re: Cable Crimping Critique - YQK-70

That looks good to me. I also soldered mine, but that's just a blowtorch on the far end of the eyelet with the eyelet hanging down. Then it'll draw in the solder and fill the end of the crimp till full.

But that's a topic that's caused heated debate here before. Crimp vs Solder vs Crimp and Solder. Right or wrong, I crimped and soldered.
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Old 08-02-2017, 01:11 PM   #3
Marauder
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Default Re: Cable Crimping Critique - YQK-70

Does anyone use the copper lugs on cart cables?
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Old 08-02-2017, 02:18 PM   #4
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Default Re: Cable Crimping Critique - YQK-70

I did. Just clean the batteries monthly, and they don't turn green.
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Old 08-03-2017, 04:20 AM   #5
Shepard
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Default Re: Cable Crimping Critique - YQK-70

Quote:
Originally Posted by JaxPilot View Post
I'm ready to start trying to make my 2GA cables for the rebuild, and had had a couple of fits and starts. Bought a HF Hydraulic crimper, but none of the dies came even close to being able to crimp the EWCS 2GA welding cable and Heavy Duty Corrosion-Resistant Copper Lugs. After a little more research, I bought a YQK-70 crimper with the chrome dies. A few experiments later, I figured out that the 50MM die seems to be the ticket, although the 35MM should be the one. Here is the first successful crimp I accomplished, it has a tiny "wing", but not thick enough to pinch any cables. I figured out how to eliminate even that little bit.



I cut the connector in half, and here is a pic of the cable embedded in the lug half, which is right in the middle of the crimp. The other picture is of the very bottom portion of the lug sleeve, and the cable removed from it.

Does this appear to be crimping enough? Should I try to solder also (I suck at soldering), or just stick with what I have here?



this is from the very bottom edge of the crimp
You asked -- I've worked as an industrial mechanic all my life and I would suggest this. I would use some type of anti-corrosive grease in the lug to keep the corrosion from working its way up the cable. Crimp the lug straight all the way -- then use battery grade shrink tube with adhesive that squirts out when heated. As far as soldering goes -- if you do -- make sure to remove ALL the soldering flux -- it will lead to faster corrosion build up. After you have all your batteries assembled in your cart -- spray the terminals with Red CRC Battery Sealer
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Old 08-03-2017, 09:48 AM   #6
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Default Re: Cable Crimping Critique - YQK-70

Use 100% rosin for flux and use non-fluxed silver solder.
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Old 08-03-2017, 12:56 PM   #7
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Default Re: Cable Crimping Critique - YQK-70

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I would use some type of anti-corrosive grease in the lug to keep the corrosion from working its way up the cable. Crimp the lug straight all the way -- then use battery grade shrink tube with adhesive that squirts out when heated.
I have the adhesive shrink tube, but didn't use anti-corrosive grease on the inside of the motor cables I already built. Are you talking about using something like NO-OX-ID?

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