No Click No Go

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

If there is no continuity there is no connection (a break) in the wingdings, correct? That is how we have always tested them and then we would check resistance if we had a weak coil (not pulling up all the way). That has never failed us so I ask in case we are missing something around here....

Typically continuity test will beep if the resistance is between 0-50 ohms, but it varies per specific multimeter.

The best rule of thumb is to only use continuity test when you are trying to verify things that should have virtually 0Ω resistance.

Small 48v relay coils will have around 2,500Ω resistance and Solenoid coils over 100Ω.

[scottyb]

What going on? The coil is burnt out? I see maybe 1 coil failure in the MZJ400A in 500 units, This cart has 2 in 30 days. What do you guys think is causing this? Constant power to the coil? It's constant duty cycle is 10 hours.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by scottyb

What going on? The coil is burnt out? I see maybe 1 coil failure in the MZJ400A in 500 units, This cart has 2 in 30 days. What do you guys think is causing this? Constant power to the coil? It's constant duty cycle is 10 hours.

When he tested the coil posts he got 0v stagnate. Then when he pressed the pedal he got 51v's, so I would not think it is a constant power issue. But that is strange none the less as its your basic 48v power, not a 60v or high powered lithium that might push the boundaries on voltage.... Must just be a bad solenoid.

[Swan]

Originally Posted by scottyb

What going on? The coil is burnt out? I see maybe 1 coil failure in the MZJ400A in 500 units, This cart has 2 in 30 days. What do you guys think is causing this? Constant power to the coil? It's constant duty cycle is 10 hours.

you really cant count the first one as it was a dead ground between pack voltage lg terminal and small terminal contact .

The 2nd one did not show problems of failure until now when it suddenly quit working between going from reverse to forward .

[Swan]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Typically continuity test will beep if the resistance is between 0-50 ohms, but it varies per specific multimeter.

The best rule of thumb is to only use continuity test when you are trying to verify things that should have virtually 0Ω resistance.

Small 48v relay coils will have around 2,500Ω resistance and Solenoid coils over 100Ω.

I will do a ohms test in the morning and post results

[Swan]

Originally Posted by _ogre

stay away from my cart

Thanks for your support

[Sergio]

Swan, You had both meter probes on the Solenoid small posts at the same time when you measured the voltage right?

Is the Solenoid mounted upside down by any chance?

Any discoloration around any of the terminals or labels on the Solenoid that would indicate excessive heat?

That is all I can think of right now that could be related....

Edit:

Just saw your post, set the meter to 2kΩ for testing the coil

[Swan]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Swan, You had both meter probes on the Solenoid small posts at the same time when you measured the voltage right?

Is the Solenoid mounted upside down by any chance?

Any discoloration around any of the terminals or labels on the Solenoid that would indicate excessive heat?

That is all I can think of right now that could be related....

Edit:

Just saw your post, set the meter to 2kΩ for testing the coil

Not upside down , no discoloration that i can see w/o pulling it out . yes each probe on a small terminal when testing voltage

[Swan]

Did the ohms test today on the two small posts with everything removed from post and batteries disconnected and the reading was 312 on the meter using the 2000/2K setting.

Here a couple of pics as it sits today , dont see any overheating ...

[Sergio]

The Solenoid coil tests good.

The base plate on the big post that goes to the battery (2nd pic) looks like had contact with the small coil post wire lug.

Try jumping the solenoid positive and negative small posts directly to pack positive and negative (this will eliminate any bad/high resistance wiring in your circuit).

If the solenoid does not "click" you can try gently tapping with a wood or rubber maltet on top of the solenoid in case the plunger is stuck.

By the way, the manufacturer recommended mounting position for that Solenoid is with the coil on a 'Horizontal' orientation (big posts to either side).

I know lots of people mount them like you have, but all spec sheets I have seen show otherwise.