Reducer Wiring

[LSUgoTIGER]

So I guess the main question I have is regarding the negative connection. In my mind, it seems that the fat yellow and fat black wires should go to (+) & (-) pack.

The smaller black and red wires should go to (-) & (+) on the fuse block, and the other single small red would go to key switch.

But the instructions with this reducer, say to put the small black wire to pack (-), and the fat black wire to the accessory, or I would assume the negative fuse block.

I just imagine big wires connected from battery pack going into reducer, and all small wires coming out of reducer to fuse block/accessories.

instructions attached. I just want to avoid ruining another battery terminal tomorrow and get this right.

[mfinnegan]

The thinner black wire goes to the pack ground on mine too.

[Andy4639]

That is correct. The load on the reducer stays the same coming out of the batteries @ 48 volts and amp draw. The load you put on it by the extra accessories will change and the 12 volts require more amps.

[Sergio]

Please wire as indicated in the instructions the Yellow wire does not go to pack voltage as it is the 12v output.

The current changes in both sides, input (36/48) and output (12v) as the load changes, but the 12v will carry more current than the input side.

You can run the thin black wire to the pack negative and the thick black wire to the negative buss-bar where all accessory negatives connect.

[LSUgoTIGER]

Ok, I have thick red to pack +, thin black to pack -.
Thick yellow to fuse block positive, thick black to fuse block -.

Thin red goes to keyswitch. I have a 2 position keyswitch (2013 TXT48 ). Do I just combine & connect the thin red and the "on" wire into a new female connector? Tested this and not getting anything. No lights. Used 14g wire to keyswitch.

[LSUgoTIGER]

Got out the DVM. 50.6 pack voltage. Disconnected the harness into the reducer and got the same pack voltage at the harness.

Plugged the harness into the reducer, but got 0volts at +/- of the fuse block. Checked the online fuse on thick red of the reducer, and it was blown (15amp fuse)

Disconnected the harness, put another 15 amp fuse in, plugged the harness back in and immediately blew the fuse again.

Then realized that the reducer I ordered was 36-48. I just saw the 48 and ordered it. Should have ordered the 48/60/72.....

[LSUgoTIGER]

ok, got the correct reducer in, plugged it in, and I have power to the lights now.

Still have a question about the thin red key switch wire from the reducer. If I have a 2 position switch, I figured that key switch wire should splice into the "on" pole on the key, which would mean that if the key is in the off position, the reducer has no power, therefore none of the accessories hooked through it would have power either. However, the lights will still turn on and off regardless of the key position. I'm sure I'm just missing something stupid due to my minimal electrical knowledge.

Also, the switches I'm using are lighted LED toggles, so they have 3 prongs (power +, accessory, and ground). However, my light kit harness only has 2 wires which I hooked to the power and accessory prongs. I know I need to hook another negative to that ground prong in order to provide power to the rocker LED, but where am I supposed to be getting that from?

EDIT: I think I figured it out. Just need to splice another black wire into the light's negative at the fuse block bus bar, and run that to the switch, and then daisychain from that negative switch to the rest of the switches for other accessories......sound right?

[LSUgoTIGER]

Does this look right?

The key switch wire isn't working as I expected as I mentioned earlier, as the lights still work no matter what position the key is in. What am I missing here?

Also, I had my 12V horn hooked directly to 2 batteries (16volts) and it worked. Now I put it into the fuse block getting 12v and it doesn't work....

Any help is appreciated.

[Sergio]

I don't follow your diagram, You have the switches power coming from a +12v fuse but the switch load which is the +12v output power to the accessories going to the negative?

[LSUgoTIGER]

Originally Posted by Sergio

I don't follow your diagram, You have the switches power coming from a +12v fuse but the switch load which is the +12v output power to the accessories going to the negative?

Yea, I dont really follow my own diagram either., I guess I just didnt draw the actual accessories in line.

I think I can figure out wiring the accessories to the switches for the most part. I guess my specific questions are: (assuming I have 4 lit toggle switches for headlight/taillight kit, separate light bar or pods, bluetooth audio amp, fan, etc. )

1.) Rather than having to run a separate negative wire from the bus bar under the cart and to each switch for each accessory, can I just do that once, and then jump negative to negative to negative to negative all behind the switch panel to just power the toggle LED?

2.) Am I wrong to assume the keyswitch wire from the reducer when wired into the "ON" position on the back of the switch, should kill the reducer as well as power to all accessories? Looks like the keyswitch wire coming out of the reducer is red 16g. I butt spliced that with red 14g. Is that ok? I still can turn lights on and off with key off.