2010 RXV battery gauge goes bonkers

[sltintexas]

I added a battery gauge and it works and then it stops, and then it works, and then it stops. It goes from what ever is the current reading to zero, then back to normal......sometimes rests at zero for a while and then back to normal. During a ride it works enough for me to know where I'm at. I don't go on marathon rides and am usually back on my charger before I'm at 80% or so. I've gone through digital readers as well as analog. they all have the same issue so it leads me to think I have an issue with my cart, not the readers. Any ideas on my issue?

[cgtech]

What type did you buy? Was it an oem gauge? Was it a "10-led bar graph meter"? If it was a "10-led bar graph meter", was it a Curtis one, or a cheap "china special"? I'm betting you "saved money", and got the cheapo. If so, count that money wasted as a learning experience.


That cart is pre-wired for a meter, and, while the OEM "gas gauge" meter is not perfect either, it was your best option.

Just dont go 'chopping into the harness' to add any meter. And if you already did, carefully disconnect it pronto, you have already dodged a bullet by not already frying your controller.

[sltintexas]

The latest one I bought is this one (it was $45 when I bough it) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The first one I bought was this one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/EZGO-RXV-DI...72.m2749.l2649

both plugged into the connector behind the dash for it. Both would do the same thing. Work great and then as time goes on, it would work for a few minutes then stop, then start, then stop etec.

[cgtech]

Ok, OEM meter. Hmm, what exactly does "bonkers" mean? Sounds like a controller problem. I'll be back in a few with more.

Ok, if you look at the meters B+ & B- sources, they come from common points, those points are not the problem, or the cart wouldnt run. That only leaves the "0-5v signal" on the grey wire.

The red & black wires supply 48v to power up the gauge, and the "0-5v" tells the needle where to point (0v = "E", 5v = "F")

[sltintexas]

sometimes when you turn the key on it will work, sometimes when you turn it, it won't work...then while you are driving it will bounce between working and not working..sometimes it cycles back and forth for a few seconds, then sometimes it will go through long periods of working or not working. It is never consistently on or off for a whole 10 mile trip.

I'll look at your diagram. I have no other issues with the cart.

[Cobra,1]

Possible bad, corroded connection to meter?
This could explain work/no work condition.

[BobBoyce]

I would suspect repeated overheat of the controller taking its toll on electronics inside of the controller. And before you respond that there is no overheat, consider the cause of the overheat. The factory RXV controllers (both Danaher and Curtis) were designed to turn tires no larger than 20.5". Doing the math, 26 MPH on a 2010 (Danaher) controller, would require the turning of oversized tires or speed gears, either of which will overheat that controller. You are experiencing an expected result of long term repeated overheats of a controller. You are not too far away from a total failure of that controller. I have seen this over and over from both Danaher and Curtis RXV controllers being tasked with turning oversized tires. Advanced controllers are my speciality,

Bob

[sltintexas]

@cgtech I was finally able to dig in some more. You are right about that gray wire. Seems to be a little touchy. see video linked below. What are your thoughts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GpLq6YRXZqw

[cgtech]

Find the loose connection in that plug, and be very careful while doing so. One false move will equal a new controller.

How about I just send you a "good used" plug to replace that one? You just cut & splice the wires a little upstream of the plug. You do this with the controller safely turned off, and batteries disconnected.

I'll totally send you one, just to save you the hassle of "poking around" in the plug & destroying the controller. I might ask for shipping $, probably not (depending on where your at, texas address is easy, just not a foreign country). No charge at all for the "plug & wires" itself. Every time I replace a harness due to corrosion problems, I always save the good parts, and that plug is always far away from corrosion. (The bad parts are always near the charge port, throttle & brake sensor wires, and everything that runs back to the motor, like encoder, motor brake, temp sensor wires, the harness is usually so bad, "repair" isnt the cheaper fix), but the part you need is always just fine.

Send me a PM message.

Just click on my user name & hit "send a private message".

[sltintexas]

Wow Thanks! i sent you a PM. gladly pay shipping plus some taco/beer $$, LOL!