Air box/governer questions

[Mike D]

Thanks for reading my questions. I have recently acquired a 92 G9 cart, and am trying to understand a few things about it. I have a decent background in gasoline engines ranging from model boats to cars, and alot of stuff in between. Unfortunately, there are some things about this cart that are new to me. First of all, the air box and filter combination. I don't really know why the complete sealing of the unit is so important to the perfromance of the cart. At this time, my airbox is missing a hook for the rubber latches, so I assume that it is not sealing correctly. With a new prefilter and air filter, there is a noticeable loss of power through the RPM range, and loss of top end. Without a lot of adjustment to the carb, when the airbox is connected, it will barely run. My next qustion is the governor. I have lossened the 10mm nut on the governor, and today I read on a post to tighten the nut for increased RPM's. I have also seen talk of tie-wrapping the cables, rerouting the throttle cable from the governer straight to the carb, and a power spring kit. Can anyone tell me what the best option is? I'm not sure if I want to keep the governor or not, just looking for some things to try. Last, I need to check the rear end lube on the cart. Can anybody help me out on how to do this?
Any help is greatly appreciated.

[bordin34]

The cart wont run right unless the air box i sealed because the extra air causes the motor to run lean. If you gut the airbox then re-jet the carb up a little bit it should run fine. If you want more speed I suggest at first to just tighten the governor.

[Mike D]

What's involved with gutting the airbox? Is it simply to remove the plastic ducting inside of ot, or is there more to this. Do you know of any pics that I can research for information. another question is this BBQ muffler issue. I understand that by doing this it may clear out the fiber packing in the muffler and some possible carbon buildup, but what effect does it have on backpressure? Most exhaust systems for various engines run with some backpressure, if I cooked the exhaust pipe, could there be any negative affects to the engine?

[sho305]

You can bungee the airbox, the straps are pretty cheap from a yami dealer, if the hook breaks just put a bolt/nut there. I hogged my box a little, took the muffler section by the generator off it. I hogged the jet with a torch tip cleaner until it ran right. I seemed to give me a little more topend not a big difference. I never have to use the choke not in summer it starts and runs in a few seconds at most in the morning even. Problem with the box is the tube the filter slips on is not that big, but it is larger than the carb inside. I don't think the other side of the box (dust trap) restricts much I can't tell a difference with it in or out. It did help to take that muffler deal off the side of it.

The governor just crank the nut all the way in, then pull the floor panel out and try to get the carb to start to open just after the floor switch goes on, I set it to start moving at 1" travel at top of pedal after the switch clicks and can get the carb wot when pedal hits floor. If you set for less it wants to jump on takeoff its irritating. That will give more travel to the cable and pull it all the way open. Some carts you have to pull the pedal and slip it up a notch on the splines if pedal is close to floor. You can remove the governor a couple ways, one is drill out the flat in the arm on the trans I did this, then put a return spring on it that holds the arm down. Another is take the cable off the arm from pedal and hook it to the carb direct but you need to make a little bracket, did this on them too don't think it works as well. If the cart is not lifted I would not bother taking the governor off, it hardly adds any speed (to what you get setting up like above) and you can rev it higher than you should without the extra gear of larger tires.

The muffler bbq is for G1 2 strokes that plug the huge muffler with oil. It is rare to plug a 4 stroke one but a few said they did. I never touched mine. they are restrictive you can buy a plowmans or use something else, will have to rejet after that too. A guy on here did cut one open and used parts of the tail pipe to double the flow in it. It is chambered inside. It is restrictive to be quiet nobody wants restriction, but its a small muffler and very quiet. You just have to rejet if you change it. Its likely not a problem for normal cart use under 12mph lol. I always wanted to get another and put dual mufflers on one lol, I like it quiet where I am at.

You can't do a whole lot for power with these, by the time you go wild and have a cam made or something you might as well shoehorn a larger engine in there for the cost. They are fun to mess with. Get the clutches working well they will help more than engine mods. Get gears if not going to lift it.

[Mike D]

Thanks to both of you for the insight. I haven't looked at removing the floor panel to adjust the cable, but I assume that can be done easily by removing the floor covering and then removing some fasteners. The air box mods from sho 305 sound like just cutting off that section of the container. Is that the square section that doesn't have the filter in it? What did you do with the hole after removing that piece? The cart isn't lifted yet, so I can play with the governor some. As far as the clutches go... what can be done to improve on the stock one. I have read there are a few things to check for wear, but I don't quite understand it. I have seen all kinds of clutch kits, but for right now I'm working with what's already on the cart. My wife and kids already want more speed, so I'm trying not to overspend on parts that I may replace soon. I'm also going to check the rear end fluid, and probably replace with fresh fluid to see if that helps with performance. Right now I'm fixing a lot of items in the engine compartment that were damaged due to a fire that happened with the previous owner. Again, thank you for any suggestions...

[sho305]

Turn the key off, pull the rubber up behind pedals at seat, lift rear of panel and get rubber past pedals as you lift/pull back/push pedal down to clear. I think its a 10mm wrench for nuts on cable. You can only go so far and the rubber boot on the cable bunches up and the end comes loose on the pedal. You might be able to bend/etc the ends on the carb cable to get a little more out it if you have to, but leave a little free travel from click to when carb starts to open or its a pain to drive. In that area you can set the idle screw (not the jet, the ilde way at top of carb) to make it idle. If you do make it idle just barely faster than the generator turns it. Idle jet goes 1.25 to 1.5 turns out usually.

That muffler/sound attenuator thing just lifts out of the airbox with cover off IIRC maybe there was a bolt in it or something. I just left the square hole open. I tried other things but ends up I don't think anything in the main part of the box under the cover slows it down.

Clutches if you want to do it all take that cover off the primary (engine) clutch. If screws you might need a $5 impact driver like used on motorcyles dont strip them. Get a can of brake clean, I do this every year or two. Spray the weights and links and the center bushing, spray inside the spring on the secondary clutch. Grease the fittings on both some secondaries don't have one its near the ramps. Only put 1-2 pumps in there or when it comes out if cover off, you don't want it flying around or getting on the belt, clean up any extra, about one-two pumps a year is good. Then get some super lube (synthetic) or a good chain lube and put just a little on the pins for the links and weights where they move. Yami says no but I don't see much dirt inside that cover and my cart gets really dusty, and chain or synth lube does not attract much dirt. Clean off any extra lube and put it back together, cover has a notch at the grease fitting. The secondary if no grease zerk then put some grease on the shaft under the spring somehow, twist the inner sheave to move it in and spread it. Check the plastic pucks on the ramps replace if needed, ramps need to be smooth. Thats about it, it should run nicer if they were dirty or dry. If your clutches are worn the aluminum sheaves will be dished in from belt wear, they don't shift as good eventually wear holes in them. The secondary I can tell you how to get off if needed.

[Mike D]

Thanks alot for the information. My initial inspection of the clutch looked good, but I don't know all of the things to look for. When I get home from work tomorrow, I'll try out these things and see what helps. I'll let you know how it turns out.

[sho305]

Clutch, the pins wear out and or the center bushing wears out. If the center gets bad it clunks and you have play in it....it has a little normally.

[Mike D]

I'll add it to my checklist...thanks