Ezgo stops and goes

[pete959]

also looks like ur noid has seen some high heat the big post should be more of a copper color

[gamewiz724]

Originally Posted by pete959

u also need to switch the main cable from b- on controller to b- on batt pack

Could you elaborate on this I don't understand.
Thanks.

I drove around several times trying to get the problem to occur and of course it wouldn't happen. Will try a couple more times today, it tends to be sporadic, can't find a pattern to it happening so I have the multimeter in the glove box incase it happens while I'm out.

Thanks again,
Pete

[pete959]

the cable where that corrosion was at on controller needs to be replaced that whole cable that is ur main ground cable

[gamewiz724]

Ok so after a VERY long drive in circles I started to get some codes. The first was a 2-3 which happened a few times so I would take a short brake, no stalls/stops. Then I got a 2-1 which when I looked was low voltage and my state of charge was dipping into the red when accelerating from a complete stop. I figured it was time to call it a day since the battery was low, and I still had not got the stall/stop problem to occur. Right when I pulled in the garage and went to go in the house it beeped what I think was a 3-2.

Sooooo... The 2-3 is Thermal Cutback, what is that and can it be fixed, or is that just like overheating from all the driving and just needs to cool? The 3-2 is Solenoid Welded what does that mean, do I just replace the solenoid?

Thanks again for all your help guys,
Pete

[gamewiz724]

Also just kind of a random question whats that empty plug on the left of the speed controller.

[pete959]

empty plug is where personality plug goes nothing there means all terrain noid welded means replace noid and thermal cut back is to much heat i would replace all the cables from batts to controller

[gamewiz724]

Ok I FINALLY got it to fail after I had given up and figured it was just a loose wire that I had tightened, unfortunately, I was wrong ... We were four houses down when it failed with a full load of family members. Anyway, I was prepared I had my socket set and a multimeter ready. I ran the same set of tests and these were my results:
The battery was 37.49v same for the closer solenoid post, the far post was a couple volts less (can't remember the exact number). Next I tested the controller B+ to A1 and the multimeter would read a few volts then drop to zero and the cart would stop. After a short period of time everyone had got off a with the smallest person left to drive it, it got going at a very low speed (slower then walking speed) and after 100ft or so it stopped completely and we pushed the rest of the way (in tow of course). Ohh and there were no beep codes but I am 99.9% sure I set it to diagnostic mode before we left.

[mazdawg(Mikey)]

If your cart is having problems running at a constant speed or is performing erratically, then you should troubleshoot the controller to find out what the problem is.


Step 1
Switch cart to "Tow-maintenance" mode by flipping the switch under seat. Disconnect the black battery cable (negative) from the battery, open the cover to the speed controller and then reconnect the negative battery cable.
Step 2
Inspect all wires to ensure that they are attached and well connected, there are no breaks, corrosion or interference with the wires. Take the reading of the battery voltage by connecting the positive and negative probes to the battery. Write the voltage reading down.
Step 3
Test the solenoid to see if this is the problem. Place the positive probe on the solenoid post that is closest to the battery. The reading should be equal to battery's voltage. If not, there is a wiring issue in the solenoid. Connect the positive probe to the other post and take a reading. If the voltage is not at least three volts fewer than the voltage reading for the battery, the resistor must be replaced. If you have a volt reading equal to the battery volts, the solenoid is the issue.
Step 4
Check the power output from the controller by connecting the negative probe to the controller's M terminal and positive to the B+ terminal. Press the accelerator and watch to see if the voltage increases. It should increase from a reading of 0 to the full voltage of the battery. If the motor is not turning, the problem may be in the directional switch or motor. The controller is bad and must be replaced if there is no voltage.


Do these steps apply to a dcs cart as well?

[NoBullBarry]

I see corrosion on the B- cable on the controller. But if I had to guess, your problem is probably the solenoid.

[gamewiz724]

The corrosion has already be discussed and replaced on the first page and why would you say it's the solenoid? Could it be the solenoid even if it passed the testing steps I followed which showed it was working?