Not charging right

[optikid]

i have a power drive 48v charger and when you plug it in it clicks and starts humming but the meter does not move. when i put a volt meter on it it shows a full charge. what happened to the meter?

[optikid]

just ran it and i run out of power so its not charging right!

[optikid]

what can i do? i need it to charge

[Stevegrmich]

. . . what is current pack voltage?

[optikid]

47
it was going about 16 then it started going slower and slower started accelerating slow and went down to 5mph. when i plugged it in the charger hummed for about 5 min then shut off.

[cmar143]

If you have an volt meter check the heatsink inside the charger. Its going to be mounted on the back side of the charger and have 3 wires going to it. What you want to do is set your VM on the arrow picture and check the 2 small diodes on that heatsink. You should only get a reaction from the VM by putting the pos lead on the back and the neg lead on the front of the diode. If you see numbers changing no matter when you switch the leads the diode is shot. That is the most common solution to the problem your describing but you need to check it. The heatsink is not expensive either.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Run a jumper wire from the small fuse on the back of the charger receptacle to B- on the battery pack while your charger is humming. I'm referring to the fuse that BOLTS onto the back of the receptacle, not the one in the yellow fuse holder. It sounds to me as if you've got a short in the internal charge circuit in the OBC. This will bypass that circuit and allow your charger to see raw battery voltage. If you get a rise on the ammeter when you do this, either the bolt on fuse is bad or the OBC must be replaced.

[ClubFoot]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

Run a jumper wire from the small fuse on the back of the charger receptacle to B- on the battery pack while your charger is humming. I'm referring to the fuse that BOLTS onto the back of the receptacle, not the one in the yellow fuse holder. It sounds to me as if you've got a short in the internal charge circuit in the OBC. This will bypass that circuit and allow your charger to see raw battery voltage. If you get a rise on the ammeter when you do this, either the bolt on fuse is bad or the OBC must be replaced.

My charger wasn't charging and I ran the jumper wire as you just described and the cart started charging. I then made the connections permanent with the understanding that it will charge just fine and a new OBC was not needed and that cart performance would not be effected. The cart has a very low run time with 6 8v's US batteries that have 7/11 written on them. I have not load tested the batteries but they are showing better than 8 on the meter. My question is is the short run time possibly due to the bad OBC or maybe the batteries need replacing? I just bought the cart. 98 CC ser. A9750. It has the downhill brake is that the same as a regen?

[TahoeDawgZ71]

You understood wrong. You need an OBC. Don't leave it hooked up that way. It's dangerous. The obc needs to monitor voltage. With that circuit bypassed it can't do that. This was simply for test purposes.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Also... A9750 means 1997 model, not 98. Downhill braking "is" regen. 97 models had two styles for obc mounting. 101800608 for angle mount. AM1229201 for flush mount w 6 pin connector. Your short run time could be a result of the bad obc. Replace it and see what happens. Either way you need a new one whether its the culprit or not